Filo’s BALI travel FORUM SUMMARY.

(Mainly from travellers’ postings on http://www.balitravelforum.com/ and  http://www.bali.com, added to our own experiences.)

Compiled to 15 March, 2009 11:02 AM.

Adelaide date and time -    Bali date and time -

There is an alphabetical list of the contents a little further down. To save you searching you can just click on any link in this list and it will immediately open up for you.

For more information and photos of Bali go to our home pages at www.filosbali.net.

Sunday, 2nd October, 2005.

I've just finished reading my morning paper and listening to the radio news reports of last nights bombings in Bali.

In the past I've written here;

"Having just returned from our 2005 trip I can only repeat what I have had written here for some years now - I honestly believe that Bali is safe for tourists.

We stayed in the southern tourist areas of Legian, Seminyak and Tuban and made day or longer trips to a Muslim school and orphanage in Denpasar, to Lovina and Singaraja, Pacung and Bedugul, to Ubud and out west to Negara which is a region with a higher than common Muslim population. Nowhere were we at all concerned."

What can I say now?

Obviously Bali is not safe, nor can I confidently say that these present terrorist attacks will make governments and government agencies such as customs and police suddenly find the will to do their work with sufficient enthusiasm and honesty to make the island safe.

We will still go to Bali because we have too many friends there whose life will return to the subsistence level or even the 'barely surviving' level and we could not desert them in what will be their hour (and days and months and even years maybe) of need. We will go because we don't often frequent those night-owl places that attract crowds and attractive crowds for terrorists.

We will also go back because we just can't bear the thought of not going back to a place we love.

[In August 2006 I heard that a new branch of the local police had been established with the aim of curbing and maybe eliminating police corruption. The phone number of this branch in Bali is 0361 224 111 and is a number that every tourist in Bali who carries a mobile phone should have entered. If you believe that you are being harassed unfairly by the police call thew number and you will be put onto an English speaking officer who will listen to your complaint and record the name of the officer(s) seen on their lapel or breast patch. The English speaking officer will then ask to speak to the officer who is confronting you and address their side of the story and  if necessary, their behaviour. In at least one reported incident the re was a remarkable change in approach and the tourist, who was being stung for a hefty bribe, was invited to proceed on their journey. A minor miracle but a giant leap forward against both official corruption and tourist angst.] - - [and in 2007 it was claimed that all this information was a hoax - but I'll keep the number just in case.]

After our 2007 trip it is fairly obvious that security measures have been stepped up considerably from the levels that existed only last year. Our first little 2 star hotel in Legian, for example, had Security personnel on duty 24 hours every day. How effective they might be in a crunch might be debatable but they are there and provide another level of protection.

We will, however, be particular about taking reasonable precautions and about registering our travel plans with family and on the government web site designed for that purpose.

We will also be careful to behave peacefully and with and moderation, not to draw attention to ourselves or to offend others, and I have to say that we have seen some tourists who would do well to adopt the same outlook.

IF you decide to go then at least do those things too. Be alert and be cautious, but don’t be paranoid and ruin what should be an enjoyable holiday. If you don’t feel that you can do this then perhaps you should not go.

Register your travel plans with the Australian Dept of Foreign Affairs and Trade, (DFAT), on https://www.orao.dfat.gov.au/orao/weborao.nsf/homepage?Openpage . It will take about 5 minutes for each person. Have your passport handy to refer to.

You might also like to check the latest travel information for your destination at http://www.smarttraveller.gov.au/.

If you find yourself needing a new passport (remember it must have at least 6 months to go before expiry, no matter if you’re only staying for a long weekend) then you can fill in all the information required on line. Go to http://www.passports.gov.au/, that’s if you’re in Australia of course but other countries might have a similar web site that will save you a visit to (and a wait at) your local government offices. Here you can download a one page renewal form which you fill out and take to your local Post Office with your old passport. (Many will take your photos for you if you haven't gone to your friendly local photo shop.) The new passport can be in your hands in 5 working days.

REMEMBER: There is now a ‘Visa On Arrival’ fee for most foreign travellers – US$10 for a maximum of 3 days and US$25 for a stay of up to 30 days. This visa fee must be paid on arrival at your first Indonesian airport and applies to all travellers, even children who may not have needed their own seat on the aircraft. The system will now allow you to pay in your local currency or with credit cards. This fee is in addition to the Indonesian Departure Tax of Rp150,000 which must be paid at the airport when you depart and it must be paid in the local currency, Rupiah. Put your first Rp100,00 note and Rp50,000 note into your passport along with the white Immigration slip you will get when you arrive and go through immigration, then you won't forget and get caught. For those not familiar with the local currency 150,000 rupiah might sound a lot but really it's only about Aus$20.
If you are thinking of a longer term investigate the Retirement Visa for the over 55's and can be for 5 years at Aus$1200/year which works out to less than the airfares to Singapore to qualify for visa extensions. There is also a sponsored Social Visa (at Aus$60 pre paid) for stays of up to 60 days. You, not your sponsor, must apply to renew every 30 days for 4 times for Rp250,000 for first 2 renewals and Rp300,000 for next two. Each requires forms signed by both you and your sponsor so don't lose touch!

One suggestion you might consider is to scan all of your essential travel documents, passport, flight tickets, reservations etc, and e-mail them to yourself. Don't delete the e-mail and you will be able to download, retrieve and print off anything lost while you're on holidays.

If you're flying through Darwin now that dropped flights have caused a bit of chaos in travellers' plans, try the Darwin Airport Resort for a break. There is a courtesy phone downstairs in the airport. For the cost of a meal and/or a drink or two their facilities are available and its only a minute in their shuttle bus with a lock-up for your luggage if you've not checked it right through to Bali. The Qantas Club is not open all day.

. .  ~  o  0  o  ~  . .

This information is compiled by  filo @ adam.com.au .  Please send feedback, corrections, comments or additional information to this E-mail address, with the two spaces on each side of the @ symbol taken out. It will be appreciated.

If you would like more information, advice, stories or photographs about Bali then start at our Home Page by clicking this link in blue type, then select from the left hand contents column on the opening page.  http://filosbali.net.

. .  ~  o  0  o  ~  . .

General Information CONTENTS LIST.

**  If you have a concern for animals remember the Bali Animal Welfare Association, Ph 981 490. They have an animal ambulance welfare service (free) and will attend to a call for any sort of animal. http://www.bawabali.com.

1. CONTACTS AND INFORMATION – Beginning with an alphabetical list.

A.    Airport porter rates – Airport lounges - Airport Taxis – Airport Bag Storage – Visa-On-Arrival at the airport (see 'Visa' in 'V' below- Airline contacts - Astronomy – Art – Art tutoring - Art shopping and Artists' supplies - Allergies; see also Cane Mites - Anti-bacterial wipes; personal hygiene - risky ATM’s risks - Accommodation including how to do it safely  - Amed, Candi Dasa & Tulamben - Adopta Coop - Amimal welfare -

B.    Bali Belly (See also Yakult & Sports drinks below.) - Toilet paper - Bargaining and Fixed Price shops – Books of and about Bali – Book shops (See also 'Dictionaries' and 'Maps', below.) - Indo National Geographic - For Blondes and brunettes and redheads but not for bald people – Traditional healers; ‘Balians’ - Bike tours - Bicycles - Blood donors - Balinese names - Baby gifts - BIWA/Bali International Women's Association - Beads - Bualu,  Tanjung Benoa & Nusa Dua - Bedugul - Bali Barat National Park - Bathers, stock and made-to-order - Bathing in local springs - Bicycle parts - Boat rides, out to the reefs to surf or just for a ride along the shore - Buying property - Baby sitting services - Bombing orphans - Local's banking -

C.    Contacts and emergency information - Camera Repairs – Cane Mites and local medicines - Charities and Orphanages – Gifts for Children – Children's clothes - Laundry services - Children's food - Children's gifts - Travelling with children (see Bali with Kidz in "K" below.) Hire laptops - Computer Software  - Pre owned computers to donate to sponsored children, orphanages or schools - WiFi networks (See Internet below.) – CD and DVD virus - Consulates (you can perhaps feel more secure if you register your travel plans at this link.) - Chiropractor - Cuts & scratches, see 'F', below. - Child minding services -  https://www.orao.dfat.gov.au/orao/weborao.nsf/homepage?Openpage ) - Crime/Bag snatchers/Crook money changers - Changing cash - Credit cards - Cultural things to remember - Some common words - Craft supplies - CANDI DASA, Amed & Tulamben -  Cycle tours - Carvings in stone - Ceremonies, religious and cultural  - Large size clothing - cloth including ikat and songket - Cossies, See 'Bathers' above, - Charities, see Orphanages, below -

D.    Drivers including vehicle hire, motor bike and mini bus - Drinking - Diseases & Injections – Doctors & Dentists etc. – Dogs – Donated gifts & goods (BIWA) – Drug risks in Bali - Delicacies - DEET - No DEET - Dictionaries - Driving yourself - Departure tax - Dress modestly - temple dress - Doing things - District information specific info for each district - Bali's District Information in brief - Details of the DISTRICTS - Denpasar, Sanur & Lembongan Island - Diving & snorkelling - Duty Free allowances - Disabled access accommodation -

E.    Emergency phone numbers – Be a blood donor in Bali - Eye Clinic – Electrical supply and connection adaptors. – Electrical appliances and equipment - Electrical adaptors - Ear infections - Eating - Eating vegetarian - Eating delicacies - Take-away food - Educational sponsorships -

F.    Furniture; sources and quality – Freight home - Fishing - Big Game fishing and little fishing - Fishing Tackle shops - a Bali First-Aid kit – Cuts & scratches - Food - Food for children (See 'C' above.) - Flowers - Flags (Umbul umbul or Umble umble) - Fixed price shops -

G.    Golf – Gifts – Gifts for children - Gift wrapping - Glasses & spectacles - Donating old glasses - Getting about – Gilimanuk - Galungan ceremony (see 'Ceremonies' above) -

H.    Health protection (including head lice infections) – Hospital care - Sex risks/HIV/AIDS - See also Cane Mites and allergies, above, and Jellyfish stings, below. – Hygiene (See also 'Anti-bacterial wipes' in 'A' above.) – Hairdressing equipment - Hairdressers - Traditional healers; ‘Balians’ - Hiring vehicles/Self drive/ motor bikes - Heritage sites - Handbags - Hot springs - Hearing Aids - Handicapped access See 'Disabled, above. -

I.    Internet etc – see ‘Internet & mobile phones’, number 10, below. - Injections - Insect repellent (See also DEET, above.) - Internet Travel bookings - Travel insurance - Indonesian Rupiah - International Women's Association - Information about various districts - Independence Day - Importers and Shipping -

J.    Jellyfish stings – Jewellery and jewellery repairs and jewellery making course- Jimbaran Bay & Beach -

K.    Kites - Kite makers - Kuta & Tuban - Kerobokan, Seminyak & Legian - Kuningan  (see 'Ceremonies' above) - Kayaks - To Bali with Kidz -

L.    Lawyer – Notary - Language help - Don't lose your temper  - Legian, Seminyak & Kerobokan - Lembongan Island - Nusa Lembongan - Lovina & Singaraja - Lombok - Large clothes and shoes for women and men - Laundry -

M.    Maps - Mosquitos – Midwife - Money & 'as-new' notes - Don't change money at home -  Money exchange - Changing Cash (See Cash, above.) - Changing Traveller's cheques (See 'T', below.) - Local banks - Money scams & credit card fraud - Crook money changers - Good money changers - Menjangan Island - Night Markets - Musical Instruments - Metal signs - local medicines (see Cane Mites in 'C' above) - Models (See 'Radio C' below -

N.    Notaries - Nurse - Names of Balinese - Nyepi Day - Ngaben (the death ceremony) see 'Ceremonies' above - Nusa Dua, Bualu & Tanjung Benoa - Nusa Lembongan - Negara - North Bali, west, centre and east - Bali Barat National Park - The National Geographic magazine, Indo language version - Mobile Phones. See special section, 'Internet and Mobiles' -

O.    Orphanages and Charities; see also 'Foundations' - Bombing orphans; (or search here for 'Adopta') -  ‘Gifts’ in ‘Remember - Cultural things', below., - Optometrist - Odalan ceremony - Oleh oleh and other gifts - Religious offerings (see http://pepproject.com/ourwork/ourworkENG/smes/creditcircles/canang/canang%20story.htm. -

P.    Photography/cameras – Digital camera downloads – Digital camera memory virus. - Printing business cards, T-shirts, caps etc – Wrapping Paper for gifts – Pottery – Prohibited imports from Bali – Pearls – Pets - Pet Fashions - Paediatrician - APS film - Passport risks - Some prices - Places to visit - Places to stay (See 'Accommodation' above.) - Philately, Stamps and postcodes - Property purchase - Plaques (see 'Metal signs' above.) - Tourist Police; new initiative -

Q.    Quarantine -

R.    Rupiah - Rips - Remember these cultural things - Radio controlled models and toy cars - Religious ceremonies -

S.    Shopping; see the SHOPPING heading below a bit and the SHOPPING sections in each of the District Information sections. Just scroll down. - Sarongs - Schooling - Driving yourself – Sex – Sunscreen – Sports Shoes and shoe warehouse and shops - Shoe size conversion charts - Scams of various kinds; See MONEY section just below this one. - Spectacles and contacts – Shipping. – Swimming safety. – Surfing - Surfing lessons - Surfers Warning - Sports drinks - School gifts - Shopping - Sales - Super markets - Safe drinking - Seminyak, Legian & Kerobokan - Sanur, & Denpasar - Singaraja & Lovina - Stone carving - Springs - Postage stamps - Signs cast in metal - Surf boards - Sponsoring children's education - Skates and skateboards -

T.    Tattoos, permanent & temporary – Toilets – Toilet paper - Transport - Travel Agents – Internet travel - Travel Insurance; Don’t leave home without it! – Traditional healers; ‘Balians’ - Trekking - Trekking and lake fishing - Tap water - Traveller's cheques-Changing (See also 'Wartels'.) - Tipping - A day trip that's a bit different - Things to do - Places to go - Town information - Tuban & Kuta - Tanjung Benoa - Tulamben, Amed & Candi Dasa - Touring by bike - Take-away food - Telephone dialling codes - 'Phone home' for free - Tupperware see the Denpasar shopping section. -

U.    Umble umbles - Ubud -

V.    VCDs, DVDs, MP3s, CDs etc. – DVD virus alert – portable DVD PLAYERS are fairly cheap and a good buy if you stay in hotels  where there is only Indo TV - Vegetarian food - Vets -  Visiting - Places recommended - Visa-On-Arrival at the airport -

W.   Tap water - Weddings and Bali wedding photographers - World Heritage Sites – Wine - Wartels - Words and phrases - Wooden wares - Western Bali - Wheelchairs & chair-friendly places - Watch repairs - Wi-Fi - Waterfalls - Welfare of sick or injured animals -

X.    X-rays -

Y.    Yakult & Sports drinks - 

Z.    As far as I know there are no Zebras in Bali but this little bit of information just fills up the alpha list.

DISTRICT INFORMATION CONTENTS LIST.

2.    MONEY  

Most of this information is regularly updated on a separate page so that it will upload more quickly when you want to check something or print it out to take with you. This link, 'MONEY', will take you straight there and you just hit the 'Back'; button to return here.

There is also a Shoppers Cheat Sheet that you can print off to take with you at this link - 'Cheat Sheet'.

If you want to do accurate conversions via your pocket calculator follow these steps -
    - divide 1 by the exchange rate for the day (remember this might change a couple of times a day.)
    - enter the result into the calculators memory.
    - enter the price of anything and multiply it by 'memory' (or the number you got when you divided above.)
    This will give the correct result in any currency you initially entered as the exchange rate.
            For example: Exchange rate is 7800 rupiah to 1 dollar
                                1 divided by 7800 = 0.0001282
                                0.0001282 multiplied by Rp200.000 = $25.64.

Carry your money in a ‘bum bag’ but keep it under your shirt if it contains a lot. Exposed bum bag straps can be easily cut and the offender away on the pillion of a passing motorbike before you can blink. (Before you condemn the Balinese for this sort of criminal activity just ask yourself if it could or couldn’t happen in your home town.) If you have large amounts keep it in several different places. I use a skin coloured cloth money pouch which hangs around my neck under the shirt as a less obvious and more secure device. Its been useful when I've been invited into that little back room at Customs and I can show an empty wallet except for travellers cheques.

'Don't put all your eggs in one basket' my old grandmother used to say - to no one in particular but to anyone who'd listen. In money terms it means don't just take cash or just plastic cards or just Travellers Cheques. Have a bit of everything then if your cash gets pinched you still have the credit cards and if there is a power failure and the ATM's don't work you can fall back on your TC's which will be replaced in 24 hours if they get stolen. 'Nope! Won't happen to me' I can hear some of you say, to which I can only say I hope you won't be sorry and I hope you won't get mad when I say, "I told you so!' Check this post on http://www.balitravelforum.com/msg/12829.html to see what can happen in real life.

"Posted by ####### on Saturday, 3. January 2009 at 09:34 Bali Time:

I'm not the type of person to run anyone or anything down but I believe those of you intending to stay at the ######## ###### ### should be aware of what happened to us & think twice before doing so.

On a positive note the rooms where good for the price but the beds are extremely hard, the showers, aircon, pool etc all good.

The negative & most disappointing side is the room safes & that there is a THIEF among their staff, also that the Australian owner could not have cared less.

We arrived on the 23rd December & between the night of the 23rd & xmas night my friend was ROBBED $3,300 AUD, which consisted of his & his 14 year old daughters money."

That bit about eggs in the basket also applies to your money in Bali. Don't carry it all onto the street at any one time. Leave some in your hotel safe and what you do carry with you split up between a bum bag, a purse and a pocket or wherever.
 

1. The local money is the Indonesian rupiah – (Rp.).
   * Coins are Rp1,000 – 500 – 100 – 50 and 25. Supermarkets use lollies (candy) as small change for less than 25 rupiah.
   * Notes are Rp100,000 (Ask for these when changing money as they’re easy to count for you and not easy for the tricky money changers to mis-count.) - 50,000 – 20,000 – 10,000 – 5,000 (About A$1.00 / US$0.50.) – 1,000 – 500 – 100.
   * Take care that you don’t get Rp10,000 notes passed to you in the middle of a stack of Rp100,000 notes, or 5,000s in a stack of 50,000s and so on.
   * THE SAFEST MONEY CHANGERS ARE AT THE WARTELS (Government telephoning shops) WHICH OFTEN HAVE AUTHORISED MONEY CHANGING OFFICES ALSO. The changers will be PT Bali Valas or PT Bali Masprint or something similar. Their rates are the same as PT Central. Most importantly they will change Travellers Cheques with a photo copy of your passport ID page. I DO NOT RECOMMEND ‘PT CENTRAL’ AGENCIES IN THE KODAK SHOPS (or in the larger Department stores) AS THEY NOW REQUIRE YOUR ORIGINAL PASSPORT TO CHANGE TRAVELLERS CHEQUES. I will not take my passport out of the hotel safe until I’m ready to go home – then I know I can get home without days of hassle. If your passport is stolen on the streets your holiday will be ruined and it will take days to get it replaced. Many travellers are now ('07) re-evaluating their trust in the Kodak shop money changers. Of concern in one instance was the Kodak shop almost opposite the Kin Khao restaurant on Jl Kartika in Tuban. We once happily used this shop for years before finding the wartels and true authorised money changers.
   * Take care also if you’re tempted to do business with any moneychanger who is offering a better than usual exchange rate. The only way he will make up the difference between the official rate (at which they all buy their money) and the higher rate that he is offering is to cheat you. Credit card scams abound including a new one reported in '05 which uses the information gleaned by the older card machines used in Bali. This information includes the full number and expiry date. In the finance office of any company that handles your card transactions an employee can copy all the needed details and a new card with a new photo and signature even, can be made in a few hours and put to use anywhere in the world.
   If there is a LEGITIMATE Security Guard in the shop it may be better than some of the others.
   Check the 'MONEY' link above (in blue type) for more information on the money risks that abound in Bali.

2. If you would like to see pictures of the Rupiah notes (face and reverse sides) go to www.balimic.tripod.com/bali/id16.html . You’ll find a lot of other good info there too, especially clear photos of many popular hotels in Bali.

3. Don’t purchase rupiah at you local home bank, as your exchange rate will be terrible. Wait until you get to Bali. If you intend to take cash then take your own currency. You can change virtually any currency to rupiah in Bali. If in doubt simply post the question on the Bali Travel Forum, http://www.balitravelforum.com/.  Changing it into something else only loses a bit each time. You can change just about any world currency into rupiahs in Bali.

4. Money exchange is both an art and a con in Bali. You can exchange virtually any world currency via cash (large denomination, new notes are best – marked or damaged notes may be rejected. Never use a strange ATM when you're just a little bit drunk. A friend says either be sober or so drunk you've got no idea how to start it so you can't muck it up. It's actually good advice. Have a look at the 'MONEY' section below. (Check the index at the beginning of these pages.)

5. Since the introduction of the Visa-On-Arrival requirement the banks now handle foreign exchange rates at the airport visa counter and its a good place to get a bit of change for those urgent purchases like a bottle of water. An Aus$50 note gets you into the country and enough for a taxi and a drink or clean teeth.

6. Don’t take your passport onto the street to change Travellers Cheques. Use a photocopy of the first (identification) page for this. If you find an occasional moneychanger who won’t accept your photocopy then leave and go to the next one who won’t be far away. Make at least one copy for each week that you will be in Bali as paper deteriorates rapidly in the humidity.

7. Beware of bag snatchers on motorbike pillions. Carry your bag on the side away from the roadway. Don’t carry a lot of money in your bag, and never your passport. Use a body belt or chest bag strung around your neck. Don’t leave your bags in a vehicle unless you are very sure that the driver is reliable and that the vehicle can be securely locked – not just locked. To have your bags stolen with all of your documentation in them must be a traveller’s greatest nightmare, and it happens not only in Bali but in Sydney and London and New York and - - - - .

8. Some ‘wartels’ (post and phone shops) are also bank agencies. As such they are also reliable money changers and recommended for changing travellers cheques because they accept photo copies of your passport which means the real one is back in the safe at your hotel. There are many Wartels in districts all over Bali. Generally open at 6 am to service the locals.
   Pt. Bali Maspintjinra are the ones we always try to use. Never had a problem here.
   They are at 16 Raya Seminyak;
   Jl Legian Tengah No438B;
   Jl Sriwijaya No2, Kuta;
   Jl Danu Tamblingan No18, Sanur, about 60 paces south of the Sindhu Beach markets. How handy is that?
   and also in Lombok on Raya Sengiggi, Km13.

9. There are honest street changers I am told, who offer slightly higher rates, but beware and be warned – many, if not most, will not only try to cheat you but will succeed! Even career bank tellers report that they have been done over! These street moneychangers are the experts in all of the tricks ever dreamed up anywhere in the world, including re-wired calculators and super slippery fingers. You are just the most recent in a very long line of suckers. Dodgy money changing is their life and you are their lifeblood. Always count your money without being distracted by an accomplice at your shoulder and always be the last to touch the money. If someone else picks it up, even if only to hand it to you, then sit down and count it again! Chances are you will be amazed. A neat reversal of this con is to give you the right amount but when you hand over your 4 x $50 bills (which you’ve been smart enough to hang on to tightly until this time) he will find that you’re one short and you’ve only given him three. The other one has been dropped on the floor at his feet or into his open money drawer which he smoothly closes with his thighs as he stands up.

10. KNOWN CROOK MONEY CHANGERS.  Immediately suspect any street changer who offers a better exchange rate than the really authorised changers such as the local Wartel (the government telephoning shops), PT Central, generally found in supermarkets and Kodak shops. Be aware that these slick merchants will move from location to location on a regular basis as their dishonesty becomes known locally. Some good money changers might be mentioned in the District sections that follow several pages down.
    * Beware of the moneychangers in Rose Tailor, opposite the Bali Aussie. A well documented rip-off centre. All of the tricks in the book will be tried and if you pick them all the supply of money will be ‘all gone’ and you’ll be intimidated and shown the door. If you manage to change some money you’ll know you’ve been cheated but you wont know how.
    * Avoid the moneychangers at – Jl Dhyana near Bestest Café and the one across the street in a post office type shop also. Stick with the Kodak guys further towards the beach.
    * Also avoid the moneychangers near the Aston Bali Hotel. Great dropper of money into his lap, claims it is ‘commission’ if caught even though his sign clearly claims ‘No Commis.’.
    * On Legian Street, in the alley between Mammas German Restaurant and the Fuji Film shop. A first class note shuffler.
    * Opposite the Restu in Legian. Small notes (Rp5,000) in the middle of a stack of Rp50,000’s.
    * Not quite a crook moneychanger but in the Bintang store in Legian do your own adding up to arrive at your total bill and calculate and check your change carefully unless you can afford to lose $10 in a 100. I don't believe that this is a policy of the store but rather the pressing needs of one of the check-out girls from time to time. We use Bintang regularly and (as far as we know) have never been short changed.
    * The changer next to Billy’s Bar on Jl Sahadewa is ‘a scumbag’.
    * In Legian avoid the moneychanger opposite the Puri Raja in Jl Padma Utara. He is in the centre one of three small shops, right in the back.
    * Also in Legian avoid the one on the corner of Sahadewa and Padma in a music shop. There is a safe Kodak nearby.
    * Kids Zone (a children’s clothing shop near Timezone and Matahari's) in Legian and also a changer just opposite Kids Zone in Jl Legian.
    * A deadly variation on the game of chance is played by a moneychanger on Legian street opposite the end of Poppies Lane I. He will try to cheat you in the usual way and if you catch him he will, begrudgingly, give you back your $100 (or whatever) bills. You will stomp out in high dudgeon, not realising that he has NOT given you back YOUR notes, but has given you at least one quite good forgery. If you go back to complain later he will argue that you must have got them somewhere else – and how con you convincingly argue otherwise?
    * On Melasti Street near Top Ten and Leong DVD is a unique cheat who actually keeps a written record of how much he’s cheated you. If you get done for Rp300,000 and try to say it was Rp500,000 he will pull out his book and correct you. He will also cheat you again when he gives you the refund!!
    * On the corner of Poppies 2 and Jl Legian, at the back of a photo printing shop.
    * On Jl Melasti about 30 paces from Jl Legian on the corner of a narrow lane there is an advertisement for ‘no commis’ and very good rates. If something appears too good to be true you can bet that it’s not – and particularly if you choose to dice with this money changer you’ll learn that the hard way.
    * Near the Kumala Pantai there is a Mini Mart with perhaps the worst money changer in all of Bali. Not only totally dishonest but aggressive too.
    * Not too far from the scoundrel above there is relief opposite the Bali Aussie in Melasti street.
    * Opposite Made's Warung and down a corridor opposite a luggage shop. 'Short-changed Rp650,000 and we had no idea until much later'!
    * On Jl Padma Utara, only a few doors from a safe Kodak shop, near Posers Bar. These guys will trick you the first time and when you go and demand your money back they will trick you again! All in hope of a 50Rp better rate (less than a cent)!
    * Do not use the changer at the Kamala Mini Mart by the Kumala Pantai Hotel. You might think that the low rate offered indicates an honest changer but this is certainly not so. The Mini Mart itself is not to be trusted either. Prices change from the shelves to the checkout and extra items can be added to your bill. The owner becomes VERY aggressive when challenged.
    * The changer on the beach at the back of the Jayakarta is well known. 'and if you buy a drink and a bag of chips you need to check the prices charged' and make sure you still have your underwear when you leave.
    * The Kumala Mini Mart (On the beach side between the Kumala Pantai Hotel and the Blue Ocean restaurant.) will surely do you over big time as he has done for many years judging by the bad reports. You are at risk of bad change if you buy anything there. Use the Circle K instead. Not cheap but at least honest with money.
    * In Sanur one traveller claims that they were ripped off at the Wartel but I find it hard to believe.
    * In Tanjung Benoa beware of the money changer who is NEXT to a Kodak shop (What a coincidence!)  on the main road, Jl Pratama. His street-side board has 'Kantor Cabang' across he top.

11. In Nusa Dua avoid the small money changer in a small arcade of shopos opposite the Grabd Mirage Hotel.

12. GOOD MONEY CHANGERS, besides the government run Wartels which we highly recommend, the department stores and the Kodak shops are noted in the various 'SHOPPING' sections of the District notes. In '05 and '06 there were some concerns expressed about 'errors' made in some Kodak shops. Perhaps this happened as a result of the very difficult circumstances all of Bali was in following the bombings, so even here it pays to check your cash carefully. In addition to those mentioned in the District Sections there are some listed here that have been tried and recommended.
    Seminyak; -PT. Bali Maspintjinra at Jl Raya Seminyak No16A, Kuta. Ph (0361) 733 618.
    * In Jl Werkudara not far in from Jl Seminyak opposite the tall brick wall around the local school, is PT Bali Saudara Valas. Small shop with air con.
    Kuta - At the beach end of Poppies I in 'The phone booth' about 20 metres from he beach road you'll find the reliable Ketut.
    * Also across Legian St at the end of Poppies I about 2 doors from Bemo corner.
    * Diagonally across Bemo corner   and a bit to your left as you cross there is a Wartel (a Government telephoning office) that is also a money changer. These changers are computer linked to the official exchange rate, are absolutely honest and will change your Travellers Cheques using only a photocopy of the first page of your Passport - which of course means that you can leave the real thing locked in the safe at your hotel.
    Legian - Opposite the La Mond Restaurant, Jl Padma Utara, in a shop with glass doors. ATM next to it. -
    * PT. Artha Giri Kencana, Jl Legian Tengah No420. Ph 754 083.
    * PT. Bali Maspintjinra at Jl Legian Tengah No438B. Ph(0361) 767 260.
    * Pt Balidavalas at the Kodak shop on the corner of Jl Legian and Poppies II. Big notes; no 'magic'.
    * They are also at Kuta; Jl Srwijaya (Pureh Puseh) No2. Ph (0361) 756 968.
    * In Jl Sahadewa, Legian, there is an honest changer near Dolphin Leather and Dolphin Restaurant. Nice young lady working there, good rates and transparent honesty.
    * Opposite the Bali Aussie in Melasti street. Small shop but reliable.
    * Opposite the Jayakarta is Rum Jungle Road (Jl Pura Bagus Teruna) where there a a lot of quality eateries including Yutz' and the Flying Piano. Opposite the Olde Fookin Pub (I'm told the food is better than the name) is a bank with an ATM inside and a security guard. Good for Rp3 million at a time.  ### See '3 million ATM's' below.
    Kerobokan - Opposite the Legian Hotel in a small shop with a tour desk. There is an exchange rate board out the front. - A reliable moneychanger in the northern districts is at the front office of the Bali Mystique on Jl Petititenget in Kerobokan.
    Sanur - Three shops down from the Swastika Hotel. He does not charge commission or tax and never touches the money after he has counted it out for you.
    PT. Bali Maspintjinra at Jl Danau Tamblingan No18 Sanur. Ph (0361) 281 229.
    Next to the entrance to the Puri Santrian on Jl Kalianget. Set back from the road a bit on the seaward side at a restaurant/bar. Better rate than Kodak and usually has Rp100,000 bills which are easier to check for your peace of mind.
    Opposite the La Travena Hotel is a local Wartel (Government telephone shop) which changes money. Receipts issued. Uniformed and armed security in attendance.
    Straight across the road from the Paradise Plaza between a restaurant (good food) and a small shop (where you can get laundry done) there is a charming lady who will change your money without a worry on your part.
    Just around the corner from the BNI Bank on the left after about 100 paces towards the Sindhu Beach markets.
    Ubud - Jineng Tourist Service, Hanoman Street 22X, Ph (62 361) 976 488.
    The Ubud Music shop in the main street opposite Cafe Lotus and one at the top end of Monkey Forest Road are reliable.
    Avoid one just a few doors up from the Ubud Village hotel and avoid the internet shop here also' ('05).
    Candi Dasa - CNI Gogo Silver & Authorised Money Changer, Jl Raya Candi Dasa-Amlapura, Ph (0363) 41 081.
    Lovina - P T Central, Lovina, Nick Money Changer, Open Stage, Jl Singaraja-Seririt (Lovina). Ph (0362) 41 966. There is a book shop next door which might make it easier to spot.

13. 3 million rupia ATM's. Most ATM's in Bali will give you 1.5 million rupia in Rp50,000 notes at each transaction, for which your bank will debit your account about $4. Some machines will dispense 2.5 million in Rp100,000 notes (these machines usually have a 'Rp100,000' sticker on them). a few machines will dispense 3 million and you will still only be debited $4 by your bank. This makes them better valkue of course. The 3 million machines that I know of are at:-

    ** Tuban about opposite the Bali Garden Hotel, near Waterbom Park. There are 4 or 5 machines in a row right on the edge of the footpath and the 3mill machine is the one on your far right - at the end nearest the airport.

    ** On Pantai Kuta at the Hard Rock corner. Walk towards Matahari from the Hard Rock and there are 2 machines on your left just before you get to the pool entrance. Use the first, often with a Security Guard outside.

    ** Look also for the Circle K store on Jl Legian a bit south of Jl Benasari.

    ** Outside the Bintang Supermarket on Jl Legian.** On Rum Jungle Road (Jl Werkudara) in the Permata Bank near the Jl Legian end.

    ** Also the Permata ATM on Jl Legian just walk a bit towards Kuta from the Bintang.

14. If you use plastic Credit Cards for purchases do not let it out of your sight or you risk having it swiped a second time onto an open account slip, and also take or personally destroy the carbon copy of the impression or watch it done in front of you. Do not trust it being tossed into the waste paper basket. Fearful stories abound in S E Asia of credit card scams, sometimes done from the impression on the carbon slip. Even the biggest supermarkets, hotels and a bank have been implicated in the scam.

15. Watch out for risky ATM’s which hold onto your card until the very last minute and then require a key entry to release it. It is very easy to forget it while you’re counting your money and leave the card in the machine for the next customer to use because your PIN is logged into the machine and does not have to be re-entered.

16. A recent ATM risk is 'skimming'. A device (or devices) read your card and a hidden camera records your PIN key-strokes. Have a look at the pictures here - http://www.utexas.edu/police/alerts/atm_scam/.

17. Some stores add a surcharge when items are paid for with credit cards.

18. If you are heading north (or east or west) be aware that the best exchange rates are offered in the southern tourist areas and get worse as you go out, even only as far as Ubud but certainly Bedugul and beyond.

19. Keep Rp150,000 in local money for your departure tax to be paid at the airport. A good suggestion is to put your first Rp100,000 note and your first Rp50,000 note in your passport as soon as you get it and then forget its there until you need it at the airport. Children occupying a seat are required to pay. This raises around Rp 400 billion each year – all of which goes to the Indonesian Government in Java – none at all for Bali improvements.
    Make sure you don’t loose the white immigration slip you get when you arrive. Keep it with your passport (and that first Rp150,000 mentioned above) and keep that in your hotel safe at all times.
    You don’t need to take your passport onto the street for anything, including changing traveller’s cheques. That you can do with a photocopy of the first ID page at any Wartel money changer.
    Also don’t forget to confirm your departure with the airline as required, and get to the airport with a couple of hours to spare to ensure you get your baggage checked in and seat allocation completed in time. If you’re flying Garuda you can do your check-in and get your boarding pass (thus ensuring that you don’t get ‘bumped off’ the flight because of over-bookings) by going to their offices the day before your flight. They can be found in Denpasar and at the Hotel Sanur Beach or the Kuta Paradiso. Also, if you do this ‘City Check In’ you wont be required at the airport until an hour before your flight.  The Garuda Business class is not what it used to be ('06). Although the seats are larger and leg room longer the service is much the same as Economy and the luxury food and drink of before have now gone.

20. Tie your purse onto your bum bag with a piece of fishing line. That way you’ll never leave it on the shop counter or in a taxi. Just coil the line up when you want to put it all back again. If you have trouble tying fishing line use a length of that brightly coloured brickies cord that’s a few cents for a big reel at your hardware store

21. When bargaining for goods keep a balanced perspective on what you are bargaining over. An extra Rp1,000 or Rp 5,000 is really just small change in your home currency. Don’t risk high blood pressure to beat the last cent or pfennig out of someone who is just trying to make a living after all. Late in ’02 a kilo of rice cost about Rp3,000 (mid '05 - Rp4250). This would be enough to feed an extended family for a day – that is about 60 cents Oz or 30 cents US. You wont miss this much but it is enough to keep them alive. Please think about it!
    A Shoppers Aid or bargaining Cheat Sheet covering many currency exchange rates is available at www.filosbali.net. Look for 'Cheat Sheets' in the left side column. They are in either MS Word or MS Excel formats.

22. TIPPING. Balinese do not generally expect tips but generosity is appreciated. It is sometimes difficult to tip an individual person in a restaurant as a tip included in the bill often simply goes into the open-ended bucket along with the “Service Charge” that you’ll find added on almost everywhere. If you want to single out and show appreciation to a particular waiter then ask them to come back after the bill has been quite finalised, then use their body as a shield from the peering eyes of the boss, give them something, ‘For you’. It is a frequent occurrence that the person who brings the bill is not the person who actually served you but the boss who is hoping you will not be alert and will give him the tip. On the other hand it’s very easy to round up the fare to the next 1000 or 5000 rupiah and thereby give a taxi driver a reward for his (otherwise very cheap) services.
    Monetary donations to families are usually spent on general family priorities rather than something that might be special to the individual you wished to reward.
    Women will inevitably spend extra money or their families rather than on themselves, which is why some practical gifts of appreciation, or 'oleh olehs' (gifts), become very personal and are appreciated so much.
    A well known ex-pat who admits to being generous but claims to be rewarded for it, recommends as follows – food and drink, 15% of pre tax bill; cabs – 10%; hotel staff Rp15,000; other services 10% if you’re happy with the service.

23. If you have friends in Bali and you would like to provide some financial help to them between visits, but still be in control, set up a low fee or free account with your bank or credit union with an ATM Cashcard (not a Credit Card). Give your friends in Bali the card and the PIN number. About half an hour after you deposit cash in the account at home it will be available to your friends with the card and PIN number in Bali for only about Rp5,000 fee per withdrawal.

24. DON'T SEND MONEY THROUGH THE POST! It will almost certainly be ‘lost’.

3.    REMEMBER – Cultural things.

1. Balinese names. There are 4 castes within Balinese society. The most common of these by far, and therefore the group of people that the tourist will interact with most often, is the Sundra caste. Note that these people are basically not priests, nobles, warriors nor court servants who make up the other 3 castes: they are not ‘untouchable’ as can be found in other cultures. The Sundra generally name their children in a fairly strict rotation of only four names regardless of the child's sex. The first child is Wayan (meaning ‘oldest’) Pron ‘Why-ahn. – Second is Made (‘between’ or ‘centre’) Pron. ‘Marr-day’, not ‘Mah-dee’. – Third is Nyoman (‘smallest’) Pron. Nee-yoh-Mahn, ‘Nee’ & ‘Yoh’ blend together in short sound – ‘Nyoh-Mahn’, not ‘Norman’ but close to it. – Fourth is Ketut (meaning ‘tail’) Pron. ‘K-Toot’ as in book, not as in a trumpet’s toot. After 4 they commonly go back to Wayan and start over again. Alternatives occasionally used are Putu or Gede (pron almost as G’day) for the first-born and Nengah or Kadek for the second-born.
   I (‘eye’) Wayan – signifies male. Ni (‘knee’) Wayan – signifies female if this is significant on the occasion.
   It’s always a hit to work out what your name would be if you were Balinese and introduce yourself by that name.
   If you stand on the beach and yell out, “Ayo Wayan!” at the top of your voice, do not be surprised at the number of locals who will turn and say “Ayo?”
   There are variations to the system and other names may be used either formally or as 'nick names'. These include, Putu or Gede for the first child, Nengah or Kadek for the second child and Komang for the third.
   The caste of a person is denoted by a prefix at times when this is ceremonially or socially necessary. (Tourists will almost certainly never be in a situation where this nicety is required.)
   A very detailed account of Balinese naming can be found at http://www.murnis.com/culture/articlenamestitlesandcaste.htm .
   * The Brahmana caste of priests are addressed as Ida Bagus (male) or Ida Ayu (female). These are the people who officiate at ceremonies and who prepare the holiest of holy water. It is considered impolite to have your head at a higher level that any Brahmana nearby. Be a little careful if you are invited to a ceremony and are tempted to climb up on something for a better shot.
   * The names of the Ksatria caste of rulers and warriors are prefixed by Cokorda or Tjokorda for males and Cokorda Istri for females. Some members of this caste prefer Anak Agung.
   * There are trade/occupation castes known as the  Wesia.  Names of the Wesia are prefixed by Gusti or Dewa for males and Desak for females. (Blacksmiths and  metalworkers are highly respected and have their own caste known as the Pande. They are addressed as Pan or Pande when they are working.) 
   * The overwhelming majority of Balinese are Sudra caste where names are prefixed by I ('eye') for males and Ni ('knee') for females.
   An interesting observation is that only male names end with the letters 'a' and only female names end in 'i'. I don't know if this is significant or not, and if so why it is done.

2. The small offerings in little square, woven palm leaf containers that you will find by all the shops and gates and temples, both big and small, are called ‘Banten’ or 'Canang'. They are offerings to both the gods and the spirits for personal health, protection and good luck as well as being a mark of respect. It is considered to be very rude if you step on these, even accidentally. Make an effort to re-arrange it if you do and offer a small apology to someone nearby. They are a means of maintaining the all important balance between the gods and the demons, between the physical world and the hidden spiritual world -  between 'Siskala' and 'Niskala'. They are placed on a shrine for the gods and on the ground for the demon spirits, a little holy water is sprinkled over them (usually from the petals of a flower) and a quiet mantra recited. If there is a burning incense stick the smoke is  a symbolic stairway to the seats of the gods. This ritual gives the offering life and  the essence of the offering is immediately absorbed by the spirits, leaving only the base substance for the local dogs. A book, 'Offerings' written by a local lady, Francine Brinkworth, is available in Bali and makes interesting reading.
   The offerings contain 5 elements (as does the hole for the foundation post of a new building) honouring the 5 main gods (Brahma, Wisnu, Iswara, Mahadewa and Siwa) and this spiritual component is most complete when it has a Kepeng (old Chinese copper coin with a square hole in the centre) placed on top. The kepeng represents the 5 elements of the material world.

3. Don’t touch anyone on the head. The head is the sacred receptacle of the spirit. The feet by contrast are the least respected area and it is considered quite rude to show someone the soles of your feet. This is probably why locals might be offended if you show the bottom of your shoes to their offerings on the street. (See above note.)

4. Don’t use the left hand to pass/pay/etc. It is the toilet hand and seen as unclean.

5. Don’t point or beckon with the forefinger or fold your arms when talking to someone. A palm-down beckoning motion with all the fingers is an accepted request to 'come here please'.

6. Remove your shoes when invited into a Balinese home, or at least go through the motions of doing so until your host indicated that it will be OK to keep them on, as will most often happen to a tourist.

7. Balinese welcome modest dressing by tourists when outside of the clear tourist areas, and ritual dressing with sashes and sarongs is required in most temples. These items of apparel can be purchased easily, or can be hired at the temple. Jl Double 6 in Legian is noted for its unique range of quality sarongs at good prices.

8. If you are involved in a confrontation try not to lose your temper or even speak loudly. Polite responses are seen as a sign of good manners, which often becomes translated into right being on your side. This is particularly important when dealing with officials such as at Immigration, Customs, Security or ‘Polisi’.

9. Nyepi Day is a ceremony of religious/cultural observance which takes place every 210 days, which is  a Balinese year in their 'Saka' calendar. Nyepi means 'quiet' but it is like New Years Eve to the Balinese although it is a very religious day with firm obligations on every person. It is a day of silence and inactivity, for spiritual cleansing, meditation and personal introspection. These expectations are often enforced by the village (Banjar) security forces ('Pecalang') or the state ‘Polisi’ on Balinese and non-Balinese alike, the only exceptions being for emergencies for which a tourists hotel management will arrange Police dispensation. Even the airport shuts down, except for emergencies and for re-fuelling through flights, although passengers are not allowed to alight. At night no lights are to be shown anywhere and no sounds may be made. The belief is that evil spirits that were frightened off by the noise and frantic activity of the day before will not be able to find a dark and silent island to return to, and any that might have remained for some reason will leave. Tourists will not be able to leave their hotel where a minimal service only will be offered and even room lights must be dimmed and curtains/blinds drawn. On the noisy night before Nyepi (which is much more like a westerners idea of New Years Eve) a procession of large figures are paraded through the streets of the towns and villages. This is the parade of the ‘Ogoh-ogoh’. It is a spectacular reward for tourists who will be confined to their hotels for the next day but can now see the fun from a street anywhere near their hotels. Driving will be virtually impossible on any road both before and during the parades. Most shops will close about midday although restaurants will remain open. For a detailed comment on the religious and cultural significance of nyepi to the Balinese have a look at www.thejakartapost.com/news/2008/03/05/nyepi-search-silence-within.html. The things I found interesting are: The concept that nyepi is an orchestrated play intended to take the Balinese to a perfect spiritual state or 'sunia'. The play is in three parts - 1.  The people are asked to purify their bodies and souls in the presence of their deities, often at a beach or river where the deities associated with land, water and air are present - 2.  at significant points (the ancient animists trees, mountains, river junctions or, these days, local road junctions) a sacrificial ritual of burning aims to pacify restless spirits, often referred to as 'demons' - 3.  the use of sound through the villages to scare off the local demons is also a means of 'scaring off' personal demons which flaw the Balinese body and soul.  The contrasting day of silence which follows is also identified with the silence of internal peace, a forerunner to sunia,  the personal and eternal peace.

10. Odalan Ceremonies are the anniversaries of individual temples. Given the thousands of temples in Bali, and their 210 day year, it is easy to find a handy temple having its Odalan ceremony. Odalan is the time when the Gods return to the temple to be entertained by the villagers. Many of the ceremonies go on for two or three days and they are as entertaining for visitors of the tourist kind as for the Godly kind. If you can refer to a Balinese calendar, where all of these ceremonies are noted, you will find some special ones with a red circle around the date. These are the ceremonies that coincide with the full moon and are especially important and spectacular: well worth going out of your way to visit. Visitors are welcome to participate but dress is important, Balinese dress is appreciated even if only in the form of a temple sash.

11. The Ngaben ceremony is the Balinese death ritual which is beautiful, compelling and an artistic presentation not to be missed if there is one in your area. Ask at your hotel desk.

12. Galungan is often likened to the Balinese Christmas and many will go back to their villages of origin for the ceremonies. About a week or 10 days later are the Kuningan ceremonies which are like New Year. Although some shops and market stalls might close there is little effect in the tourist hotels. Galungan is really the celebration of good over evil. Businesses are often closed or open with reduced staff because people go back to their home villages to attend rituals and make offerings to the ancestors. Penjor, those unbelievably tall bamboo poles with highly decorated leaves and attachments, will decorate the streets of every village and the doorways of most houses to recall the victory of Dharma over an evil and godless Balinese king, Mayadanawa. The later ceremony of Kuningan is often described as All Saints Day for the Balinese. While this likeness is not totally accurate its a pretty good approximation for understanding the basis of the rituals. It is during this time between Galungan and Kuningan that the ancestor spirits who have returned to the village are feted, feasted and entertained by dances and feasts. Temples are cleaned and decorated for the offerings intended to please the ancestor spirits and encourage their watchful care of the village and the villagers for the next 210 days of the Balinese year. The whole period is one during which the Balinese strive to achieve balance between the opposing forces of their cosmos. The important Hindu principles of balance between;
    Man and Nature,
    Man and his God(s)
    Man and fellow Man,
    are emphasised in their activities and negative disruptive thoughts and actions such as theft, deception, anger and violence, jealousy and lust are avoided so everyone displays their best behaviour. It is a time when you will see displays of the finest clothes in the wardrobe, the most graceful dancing and the most colourful foods, offerings and decorations.

13. Indonesia's Independence Day is 17th of August. There are always some celebrations and some of the big shops are either closed or only open for a short time.

14. ‘Oleh-oleh’ are small gifts given when you return from a journey, something you might take for a friend when you return to Bali.
    A gift given to your host for their hospitality, or to a friend for kindness or simply as something you would like to do is ‘Kado’ or ‘Pemberian’. If you win the raffle or a prize or 'buy one get one free' that's 'hadiah'.
    New babies are very special in Bali. They are seen as having come from the Gods and are as pure as a human can ever be. I've been told that a very welcome gift that respects Balinese tradition is nice, new, clean money (value not important really) in a red envelope. The red envelope is obviously a hangover from part of their adopted Chinese traditions. If you decorate the envelope with your own artistic talents, even a carefully written or printed Babies name will do, but more is better to tickle their artistic sensibilities, like stick-on cartoon figures or shiny stars, glitter adhered with a glue pen or stick, etc (see your local newsagent).
    The money is a symbol of your wish for the child's prosperous life (what Balinese does not want a rich child to look after them in their old age) and the hand decorated envelope is a very personal touch that is seen a super special for that baby.
    Put the envelope in the right (clean) hand of course and the parent will help in this regard as they will immediately recognise what you are doing. Remember not to touch the babies head.
    Anything after this dims into insignificance, almost, but you might find some suggestions below.
    It may not be a good idea to give out presents to every child that you meet as this could set up an expectation that all that visitors are good for is handouts. If in doubt ask the parents first. (Think of yourself as a parent in similar circumstances – ‘What is that stranger giving my children?’)
    Large handouts of sweets may not be in the best interests of children’s health.
    I really can’t recommend the unbelievable suggestion I recently read that tourists drive along the streets and throw out sweets to children from the moving car. Apart from the dangers it seems to be a waste of a golden opportunity to talk to them.
    Children love soap bubbles, readily available in little bottles with blowing rings attached under the lids, from party supply stores. Also now available at Matahari's and other supermarkets in Bali. Keep one in your pocket and casually blow bubbles in the street when you come across some kids. You won’t believe how big a hit you are – but have a good supply if you’re going to start giving them away.
    Families welcome bottled water dispenser (20-litre size) with tap.
    Women like bright fabrics of western pattern. 1.5m. for kebayas (upper garment). Rp15,000 for tailor to sew.
    Even though western style goods are available in Bali they are not often bought by the Balinese for themselves, – the younger generation excepted perhaps, so don’t shy away from purchasing locally.
    Blokes are not easy to get something for although strange things such as formal ties (expensive in Bali and often yuk!) and even bow ties are sometimes welcomed by drivers and young blades out to impress the lady of their fancy as wealthy men of business substance
    Some favour body sprays such as Lynx, deodorants etc that they would never spend their money on in Bali. Baseball type caps with Aussie (or your home country) style logos. Picture postcards from home. Picture books of animals or plants from home or home travel books with pictures - local auto club or tourism office.
    Short sleeved dress shirts in Plantation white and pastel colours.   Even condoms so I've heard although I've never been asked for them.  Sunglasses which is another surprise but even cheap Aussie ones are better quality than the cheap Bali ones.
    For musicians a plastic Recorder (wind instrument) or a set of guitar strings. For drivers try car shampoos and waxes or Aussie style stickers of rampant kangaroos etc.
    Good quality playing cards, chess sets, even a box of fishing tackle and good quality line if they are shore dwellers and have an interest in this direction
    A small bag of lollies (sweets) to share around at unexpected times (or a big bag on the beach – or a bag full of small bags) is a great treat. Good chocolate bars. Bali chocolate is not as sweet as ours. Try Cadbury Dairy Milk, Caramello, mint chocolate etc. Also Natural Food Company candy, jubes etc.
    For children small dolls or miniature cars and motorbikes are welcomed, as toys are not high on the Balinese shopping priorities. Little kangaroos and koalas with clothing clips. Badges and stickers, address books and autograph books, drink holders, magnets. Super bouncing balls in 6-packs in the party section of your local supermarket.
    Lipsticks, nail polishes, skin creams – even the unused remnants of your own supply when you leave at the end of your holiday.
    Cheap bangles in bright colours. Small toy cars. Sun visors in preference to caps. Water pistols. Hand-held maze games with little ball bearings in them that you have to roll into holes. 'Magic Blackboards' (lines disappear when the film is lifted). Keep an eye out at local garage sales. Small mirrors; check your local plastics store of wardrobe manufacturers for off-cuts of plastic mirror which can be cut and shaped with regular woodwork tools.
    Colouring books and pencils, particularly with animal shape erasers on the end. Hair bands and clips. Lollies and chips from the local supermarkets. McDonalds toys. Tennis balls. Plastic whistles. Balloons, particularly if they blow up to animal shapes rather than just round.
    The shopping bags that are now common in Australia - green or blue and particularly the brightly coloured ones just available for our June '06 trip.
    Stickers and transfers. Coloured lip salves that youngsters use to paint stripes and flowers on their cheeks. Face paints and brushes.
    Warm clothes (old jeans and jumpers) for people living in the cold central highlands particularly.
    Best of all - photos of themselves, with or without you, enlarged at the nearby Kodak shop (very cheap in Bali) and put in a frame for them. Perhaps an extra one of them with you, for their parents/children/friends.
    Picture books. Jigsaw puzzles (no language problems, available for all ages and both sexes and re-useable for generations). School writing books, lined or graph and blank. Text books and old novels in English are fine, particularly if there are pictures that relate to the text. Try your local Op Shop where you might get a dozen for $2 or even a number for free if they know you’re giving them to a school or village library in Bali.
    A bit of a different gift to take to a special friend in Bali is Aussie chocolate. Smoother and more to the Balinese taste than even their local brands you will be a hit at any party.
    Paper hats, masks, Indian headdress (with feathers). Sheets of stickers for school books and other prize possessions.
    Balinese women particularly love to get your old bras as they are beyond the means of most family budgets to buy new. Take up a collection of them at the office and donate to a worthy cause.
    FOR FAMILIES;
    'Sembako' is short for 'Sembilan bahan pokok' or the government proclaimed nine food staples. These are -
    - rice
    - sugar
    - cooking oil
    - kerosine (or kerosene) (or other heating fuel such as gas in steel cylinders_
    - eggs
    - milk (powdered or tinned best for poor families - remember no refrigeration)
    - salt
    - meat - beef, chicken or fish.
    Large boxes of instant noodles will also be a big hit as they will be something different in their diet.
    Frozen beef.
    Biscuits in the Australiana tins.
    Sheets and towels, pillows and pillow cases, maybe even a good quality mattress if you know this would be welcomed.
    Odd kitchen utensils – big spoons, egg flips etc. Plastic containers with good seals for storing rice, meats etc. Pots and saucepans, frypans, baking dishes, colanders, strainers, fine mesh skimmers, ladles and big serving spoons, tongs, meat tenderisers, wooden spoons, mops and brooms, dustpans, food processors, mixers/beaters/whisks/ rice cookers (buy locally), cutlery, crockery, glasses, mugs and cups, teapots, kettles (open fire and electric, cleaning equipment,
    Bags of mixed lollies (candy). Tubs of ice-cream and a stack of plastic spoons.
    A big bag of fruit. Most families grow some fruit and veg but can’t grow every thing, or every variety, so fruit is always welcome particularly so if you know what they don’t grow themselves. Similarly tea, coffee, sugar, green vegetables, fish and meat, chillies, garlic or onions, powdered milk, hot sauces and rice are always welcome. If possible accompany your friends to their markets where they can select their produce and you pay for it. This not only ensures that they get the quality of vegetables etc that they prefer but a side benefit is the heightened esteem that their friends have for them when a foreign visitor goes shopping with them. It also means that you are supporting the very local economy rather than someone unknown in Java or somewhere.
    Store medicines and health supplies as simple as Bandaids, cotton balls, ointments (local ones if you can), adults and kids Panadol etc are also welcomed. Ointments and salves that sting like crazy or smell outrageously seem to be thought of more highly than mild ones!
    OTHER SUGGESTIONS;
    If a friend is due to have a birthday a hand made birthday card in a decorated envelope is about the pinnacle of respect that you can pay to the artistically inclined Balinese.
    A cheap or disposable camera. Bought Duty Free it’s not such a great expense.
    Electric fans are fairly cheap to by in Bali. Check the family needs first.  An old radio/cassette tape player. The men particularly are often chess fanatics so a chess set and board will elevate his standing amongst his friends.
    Balinese are passionate about soccer (the world game) and soccer balls at schools and orphanages are always welcome.
    Badminton is a national sport and racquets and 'birdies' are great, particularly for the girls. Frisbees for the beach. Beach tennis bats and tennis balls, soccer balls (particularly miniature balls for the younger children) and even Aussie rules footballs (again smaller sizes for children). Balls that have super bounces, particularly if they are clear with animal/bird images in the middle of the ball.
    All sorts of school supplies in any quantity. School fees are between Rp30,000 and 45,000 per month per child. Uniforms and materials are on top of this as are fees for ceremonies. It is common to see children going into schools on Saturdays armed with whiskbrooms instead of books. They are expected to clean the buildings. There are no government concessions of any sort for education (even for the children in orphanages) in Indonesia. Wax crayons, Textas (felt-tip pens) and coloured chalks. One traveller regularly collects pens, pencils rulers etc from polling booths after elections for donating to orphanages and schools. Get approval from the electoral office beforehand, in writing if possible. Many regular travellers sponsor a child’s education as an on-going gift to a Balinese family or to an orphanage child. Fees are about Aus$100/year for primary education, doubling for secondary school and even more if a student proceeds to senior secondary.
    For school sponsors consider a set of wall maps for the classrooms. In '06 I came across a supply on the first floor of the Super Nova department store on Jl Raya Kuta.  If you want a valued gift that's a bit different get a topographical one of 'Provinsi Bali' at 1:150,000 scale showing roads, towns, ports, rivers, lakes and provincial borders for only Rp20,450 or Aus$3.00 approx. How cheap can a reasonable quality wall map get? They also had similar maps of Indonesia, Australia and the world.
    Indo-English dictionary. If you're sitting out in the cool of the evening chatting with friends and a food cart ('kaki lima') goes past buy them all something to eat. Its only about Rp3,000 each or 40 cents a meal!
    Sales brochures for cars (particularly for small 4-WD’s like their own ‘Kijangs’) and motorbikes with lots of pictures – and your home prices so they can ‘Oooh’ and ‘Ahhhh’!.
    Packs of Disney cards. Kids sun glasses, TeleTubbie dolls ***(or whatever is the current television cartoon craze amongst kids). Key rings with a flavour of you own country.
    Beads and string for bracelets. Skipping ropes. A4 or Legal size paper, envelopes of all sizes, sticky tape, pens and highlighters, calculators, computer software, glue sticks, ‘Post it’ sticky notes, stamps and stamp pad, clip boards, manila folders, staplers and staples, photo albums, plastic envelopes, rubber bands,
    You can take English language schoolbooks and educational magazines for the free English teaching program run in the smallest Bali villages. Gaye will pick them up from your hotel. Ph 758 737 or you can drop them off at her shop called ‘Eclipse’ on the right side in the Kuta markets as you walk through to the beach.
    If you’re good at tying little animals and stuff with those long thin balloons you will be an instant hit in Bali – but make sure that you can tie them fast and take an enormous supply.
    The current crop of brightly coloured eco-friendly shopping bags available almost everywhere in Oz are great favourites. Get one for each family of friends, or one for each member of the family and put other little gifts into them that you think that person would like.
    FOR SCHOOLS – Schooling is not free in Indonesia and the costs of education and required uniforms is not cheap, especially for the orphanages of course. If you want to help with a child's education there are organisations such as the Helen Flavel Foundation and YKIP that will give you good advice. The costs seem to vary inexplicably with the Foundation giving the best options but it only operates in the northern areas at present, mainly from a lack of reliable and trustworthy contacts 'on the ground' in other places. 
    The usual school supplies of pens, pencils, erasers pads, books and so on are always welcome because they are always being used. Buy them cheaply in Bali to save on your freight weight and to give the students the size and style of materials that they are familiar with. Coloured pencils are sometimes seen as an extravagance as there is not the money to replace them when they are worn out. Don’t forget the teachers who work under similar handicaps to the pupils. Red and green pens as well as black and blue. Stamps, stamp pads and replenishment inks. Chalk, good quality with strong colours not the wishy washy sort. Dustless chalk. Blackboard erasers. Blackboard paint and a good brush. Books about your home flora and fauna. Illustrated books with simple English text. Pencil sharpeners, particularly the good type rotary ones that are screwed to the wall or door frame. Coloured crayons. Rulers, setsquares and French curves, lettering templates in a variety of sizes. If you really want to make a lasting impression offer to fund playground facilities such as paving bricks to eliminate the rainy season mud and the dry season dust. Sporting goods are always welcome. Soccer is a passion in Bali, as is chess and badminton is almost a national game with world champions being local heroes.
    ** Head lice are not uncommon in Bali and are often rife amongst orphanages and schools. PediTox is a local shampoo available from Apotics (local chemists) for Rp3.000 a bottle. Try the Apotic next to the Bintang Supermarket on Jl Legian. Nits are called 'kutu'  by the Balinese. If giving to locals away from the tourist areas explain the need for EVERYONE to be treated on a regular basis until the nit-egg cycle is broken. A small trigger bottle for spraying in the corners of rooms and amongst bedding might also be useful. Take care that there is not broken skin on the scalp from frustrated scratching. The best long-term prevention is probably regular hair care with a good shampoo and a good conditioner. A bulk purchase of this for your friends is much better than a bulk supply of nit treatment solution.

    FOR BABIES – Money is always welcome and considered not only lucky but is also essential for the 3-month and 6-month ceremonies. It would be seen as good luck if the first thing you did was to put a note in the baby’s hand. (Much like the custom of tapping all the goods in a market stall with the money from the first sale of the day.) It will also be especially valued if it is a crisp, new note, and is put into a new, sealed envelope containing a nice ‘congratulations’ or ‘baby’ card and which is especially hand written and decorated to honour the occasion. 
    If money is not really a factor a pram, pusher, bassinet or cot will seem luxurious to new parents. On a less-grand scale disposable nappies for special occasions or soft cloth nappies (and pins)  will be welcomed. For struggling families a supply of baby formula and/or long life milk. Perhaps a baby bath bought in Bali.

    Lightweight baby sleeping bags with a bunny rug for a throw-over. Heavier weight sleeping bags will be useful for a family living up in the mountains where it gets damn cold even though Bali is generally thought of a tropical.

    Bonds suits or other one-piece clothing is not commonly used as kidz run around without nappies for many months.
    Traditionally within Bali a package is put together for a new baby. In a woven basket there will be a new set of clothes, soap, powder etc, and for the parents some rice, sugar and coffee. This helps to feed the visitors who will come to see the baby and who must be offered food and drink.
    Some supermarkets have gift vouchers (Matahari).
    Hand drawn flowers or toys done with coloured pens and glue sprinkled with glitter will appeal to the Balinese love of handcrafted things.
    Grow suits, such as Bonds, are not used by the Balinese.
    A toy (stuffed) or mobile will be appreciated, as the usually scarce monetary resources would not be spent on such ‘luxuries’. If it’s been used that’s OK – wash it in your machine with a dose of antiseptic before you take it.
    Mittens and bootees, in cotton, will be used. A shawl or jacket in crochet, particularly if you can make it yourself, will become a family heirloom. Formula milk powder (buy in Bali) baby powder, heat rash cream, nappy rash cream.
    Used toys scrounged from friends and neighbours at home will be welcome. Soccer balls (they’re soccer mad in Bali) volleyballs and nets, table tennis gear, exercise mats, running shoes for boys and girls, tennis racquets and balls.
    First Aid stuff such as antiseptic cream, sticking plasters, cotton balls, Detol, bandages, tweezers, Panadol/aspirin, eye wash cups, aloe vera gel, cotton sheets.
    Hair brushes and combs (clean with antiseptic solutions before taking them if they have been used), towels, face washers, sheets, pillow cases, hairclips, electric iron, fans, talc powder, shampoo and soaps, hair clips and ribbons. See also nit control advice above.
    Jigsaw puzzles and other table-top board games, creative toys such as Lego, sewing kits, educational posters such as world maps or maps of Asia, posters of places people of different cultures, the human body, musical instrument posters, portable tape players., pop star posters,
    Take your old and no-longer-favourite music cassettes. If you find a nice driver he will probably have a player in his vehicle and will welcome your old tapes as a relief (?) from the ever-present gamelan orchestra.
    PAPER for gift wrapping, and stationery, from Garuda Wisnu, Jl Teuku Umar almost into Denpasar on the left coming from Kuta about 1 km past Hero’s and Libby supermarkets. Set back a bit off the road. Old building reflects the long existence of the business.
    Also Inti Grafika, also Teuku Umar. Ph 231 552 and the Bintang Supermarket in Seminyak.

15. ART. Art is now an inseparable part of the Balinese web of daily life. Balinese art can be seen in painting, carving – both stone and wood – writing and the decoration of temples and Palaces particularly. This present flourish of creativity was not always in evidence however. Historically, Balinese art was simply a means of unremarkably producing religious objects and a means of covering the surfaces of dull royal buildings to distinguish them from dull civic buildings.
    To help this file load a little quicker the whole of the 'Art' piece has been given a page of its own. Use this link - BALI ART - or go to our HOME PAGES and look in the left column contents list.

16. * Art tutoring c/- Ramoto’s Gallery, Kutuh, UBUD. rodanet@denpasar.wasantara.net.id . Tutor is a graduate from Oz. Live models. Best to be early or the locals will take the best views.

17. * ART SHOPPERS looking for art materials will be amazed at the range and prices at Duta Warna, Jl Diponegoro 206A, Denpasar, Ph 234 320. The staff are knowledgeable but you will need to make a little allowance for their stilted English. The Chinese owner seems grumpy but the stocks and the knowledgeable service makes this façade easy to ignore or joke about. 
    On Jl Imam Bonjol, going towards Denpasar, about 300 metres past Alfa Supermarket and 50 past the big deckchair is a billboard for Windsor and Newton supplies. Stuff for kids work also. Interesting building supply and tool centre next door for non-artists.
    Artists seeking framers can rely on Artistica on Imam Bonjol No322 in Denpasar. Rudy knows art and framing. A rush is all in a days work for him.
    The Gramedia outlets in larger stores are another good source. Faber Castel materials are very cheap by Australian standards.
    Upstairs at the Supernova Department store in Kuta you will find artists canvasses of all sizes, art supplies also, at very cheap prices.
    Tiara Dewata department store in Denpasar also has large offerings in their stationary section.
    Ubud is often called the centre of the arts in Bali and has several supply stores.

18. WORLD HERITAGE SITES.
    Bali has nominated four World Heritage Sites that are a ‘must visit’ before they are over-run and over-commercialised.
    * The Taman Ayun Temple. A classic water-temple and moat in Mengwi.
    * The Pakerisan River Basin in the Gianyar Regency (running north-south around the town of Gianyar just east of Ubud). Scenic and archaeological sites of pre-historic and pre-Majapahit sites that are significant in the early Balinese Hindu and even earlier Buddhist history.
    * The rice paddy fields around Jatiluwih village in the district of Tabanan which is west by north west of Denpasar. It is the oldest and most complex Subak terracing system.
    * The Bali Barat National Park in the north west corner of Bali was nominated for inclusion but has not been selected. (’04).

19. CHARITIES and ORPHANAGES -  
    Note that there are 4 types of ‘orphans’ in Bali; “Ekonomi” which means that the child actually does have parents but they and the extended family are financially not able to support children. The circumstances that cause this may be temporary or continue for years. “Yatim” means that the child has no father. “Piatu” means that the child has no mother. “Yatim-Piatu” of course means that the child has neither mother nor father. Most Yatim and Piatu orphans are of the opposite sex to the surviving parent, or there may be problems related to sexual behaviour in the family.
    We feel deeply about the situation of these children who simply do not exist as far as the government is concerned. We have been there and memories still come back every time we see our own children and grandchildren. For information go to http://www.filosbali.net/tuka_orphanage.htm or http://www.filosbali.net/BaliOrphanages.htm  where you’ll find directions and info on other orphanages. For the story of our visit go to www.filosbali.net/BaliStory2000.htm#Day%2015/  but be aware that this is towards the end of a 400 page 'book' and will take a few minutes to load.
    * A definitive page listing Indonesian Orphanages, although without any helpful details, can be found at www.yakee.de/orphanage/Bali-Orphanage.php3 . From the list of 27 – in March 2003 - you’re bound to find one close to wherever you’re staying.
    Also have a look at http://micbali.proboards21.com/index.cgi?board=report&action=display&thread=1754 for names and locations.
    *** If you are interested in sponsoring the education of a child or supporting a small English language school or remote and needy Balinese we strongly recommend that you have a look at :-
    *** Helen Flavels Foundation, where every cent donated goes to the needy and all expenses, except bank fees, are met by Helen and Ron's retirement funds (now that they are no longer in business which has funded their activities in the past); http://www.helenflavelfoundation.org/.  The costs of sponsoring a child's primary education through the Foundation is only Aus$120, which might be a small price to pay for future peace by keeping the children out of the hands of fundamentalist schools. Made Dedut is the driver they suggest you use for your northern excursions. He is a driver frequently used by the Helen Flavel Foundation and therefore knows where all the schools, orphanages and retirement homes are. His Bali number is 08155 8014 108 or (081 338 727 461). A couple of days notice might be needed. Donations to schools, orphanages, and people. Virtually anything will be put to good use, modified or altered or traded for higher priority stuff. Do not be backward about offering whatever you have.
    *** In Western Australia the Swan Valley Rotary Club is a big supporter of Bali's orphans and will assist you in sponsoring a child (or children) through their education years for a little over A$100. This organisation is similar to the Helen Flavel Foundation described above and is just as involved and just as reliable. E-mail Noel at noel@lonarch.com.au.
    *** Similarly in South Australia the Gawler Light Rotary club has a support program for A$110 per child. Have a look at http://www.gawlerlightrotary.org.au/default.asp?page=esp. or contact Jacquie at esp@gawlerlightrotary.org.au.
    The Legian Gardens Restaurant in Jl Melasti is a drop-off point for donations. There is a large box there.
    Almost a local is Pat Scott a New Zealander who works with the Rotary clubs of Bali helping mainly children who are part of the East Bali Poverty Project (See lower down.). thebalivilla@gmail.com/.
    *  Our own favourite was the Orphanage at Tuka, a small village about 3 Km north off the road to Tanah Lot temple and about 8-10 kilometres north west of Denpasar and they are now doing quite well compared with other places. (www.tukaorphanage.net) Their address is Panti Asuhan Sidi Asthu, Jl Raya Tuka, Banjar Dalung, which any reasonable driver will find. The phone is (0361) 229-582 and it is a good idea to phone ahead of your visit.  The best visiting times are Sunday after 9 am or weekdays after 3 when school is over and the afternoon rest period is done. Our visit in October ’04 suggested to us that it had improved greatly over the years and quite by chance we found the - -
    *  Panti Asuhan Alas Kasih is in Negara up on the south west coast, which we have decided to sponsor now. The address is Jl Ngurah Rai, NEGARA. Ph 0365 41168 and the managers mobile is 081 557 11391. It’s a day trip up there but a rarely visited section of Bali that has some exceptional scenery that is a bit different. Go to our home page at www.filosbali.net and look for Negara in the left side column when it opens. Donations of goods (not money) can be left with Haaris at the Bali Cyber Cafe and Restaurant in Legian. From May '06 the new address will be 9 Komplex Sriwijaya, Jl Putih Jelantic, KUTA. This is just off Jl Legian a bit south of the Melasti intersection.
    The place is really a bit more than your average cafe and we can recommend it for a good meal from a menu with some differences.]
    *  Yayasan - Panti Asuan Yasa Kerthi Karangasem, Jl Ngurah Rai No45, Amlapura, past Candi Dasa. Ph (0363) 21210. It's an orphanage that is off the beaten track in east Bali. The desperate poverty out that way generates a need for food before 'luxuries'. Run by Ni Kadek, Ph 085 935 124 257. Best to get an Indo speaker to do the phoning for you ans ask her what she needs most before you go..
    Soap, medicated shampoo, tooth brushes and tooth paste are commonly needed essentials, combs and hair brushes are welcome but fancy thinks like hair scrunchies and/or bright ribbons, soft toys, $2 radios (with spare batteries) and similar non-essentials will always win the kids over, here or at any other orphanage you visit.
    Rice is always needed at these places since the government cut the rice allowance by 50% in '05. If you can get them there in reasonable condition meat, fish, vegetables and fruit are also welcomed but as there is no refrigeration (power costs too high) larger quantities cannot be kept. A 40 pack carton of dry noodles for about Rp50,000 at most. Things like cooking oil, nuts and so on will last until used and provide an alternative to boiled rice. Think of the things that you keep on the pantry shelves at home for more inspiration.  
    The 9 basic food list generated as a months sustenance supply for a family of four after the bomb included; 30Kg rice, sugar, cooking oil or margarine, beef and chicken meat, eggs, milk powder, corn, kerosene (also called paraffin) for cooking fuel, and iodised salt. A simpler ‘quick fix’ was rice, sugar, oil, instant noodles and iodised salt.
    We believe that the older kids here, especially the girls, show signs of iron deficiency because of a shortage of meat and fish in their diet. Someone who knows might suggest that bulk supplies of iron or multi vitamin tablets would be good. If you have knowledge in this area we'd like to hear from you.
    ***  If you can't decide or can't make a trip think about donations of cash to Bali Kids. They get involved in all sorts of things for any orphanage but mainly they provide for visiting medical care to the kids. Their Mobile Medical Care facility has over 5,000 kids in the register and treated over 1750 kids in the first 3 months of '07. A unique service and not cheap!!! Yayuk Kanti is the Director and you can phone him about donations on (0011) (62) 0812 3858 337 or e-mail yayuk_balikids@yahoo.com.
    Someone has set up a web site for the orphanage at www.alaskasih.org.id.
    Good quality mattresses are also needed (mid '05) and Karya Subur at Jl Gatot Subroto in Denpasar has the best value/quality at Rp310,000 for the common 120 x 200 size 'Pinang Special'.
    * Out east from Kuta - Sanur, near Klungkung, is Yayasan Kripana Putra Dharma Panti Asuhan Semara Putra, at Sekreteriat Jl. Dewi Sartika N0 5 KLUNKUNG. Very poor and rarely visited they are as worthy of your help as is Negara (above) because both are isolated to a greater than normal degree.
    * People who distribute gifts to needy families, and who know the really needy cases are the women of Bali, the Bali International Women’s Association (BIWA). Check their website at www.biwabali.com/ or www.bali123.com/biwabali/index.htm. In 2003 they ran their annual Bazaar with nearly 3000 attending and over Rp250 million was raised in one day for AIDS victims, HIV prevention and aid to underprivileged children. Local support at this level indicates a known and respected organisation.
    * The East Bali Poverty Project helps disadvantaged children to help themselves. Sort of ‘Give a man a fish and feed him for a day, Teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime.’ Go to http://www.eastbalipovertyproject.org/ for details of this worthy cause. David Booth who is both founder and currently chairman of the East Bali Poverty Project has been awarded the Order of the British Empire (OBE) for his ‘services to sustain development in rural East Bali’. 2004. East Bali has an endemic iodine deficiency in the poor rural areas. The Project tries to remedy this by education, provision of clean water, a balanced diet and personal and local hygiene.
     * Panti Asuhan Kesayan Ikang Papa is a small orphanage for about 20 handicapped children in Gianyar on Jl Elangga. Gianyar is east of the southern tourist areas, past Sukawati where the great markets are, towards Klungkung, Candi Dasa, Amlapura, Tirthagangga and Amed. Its about 30 Km from Kuta and much less from Sanur of course. As its a bit off the common tourist paths they don't get a lot of visitors but still need a lot of help as you can imagine. The kids are mostly hearing impaired and some have intellectual problems as well. Be warned that you will lose your heart if you visit them. A driver familiar with the place and the rout is Kadek Artana who can be contacted on (+62 812) 380 7 160 or e-mail Artana_Kadek@yahoo.com. We visited in '06 and I felt that the carers here were especially good and dedicated to what must be a trying task.
    * There is an orphanage in Singaraja which is not far from Lovina and Richard, the owner of the Rambutan Cottages where we usually stay, or his wife Tini will happily take you there. Phone them at Rambutan Cottages (upgraded late in '05)on 0362 413 88, mobile 081 238 319 41.  The place is housed in a school which went bankrupt (I'll leave you to guess why) and caters for a mix of Hindu and Buddhist children. They are the most delightful kids who will charm the visitor who wants to spend some time there. I go to jelly when some innocent little kid just wants to put the tip of his (or her) finger on the back of my hand to be recognised. Their address is Dana Punia, Kampus Afgar, Banyuning. Its easy to visit being not far off the main road into Singaraja and reasonably well signposted (there is a right turn just after crossing a bridge over a spectacular river ravine) although down a short but steep entry road with a very sharp left hand bend at the bottom. Your driver will have no problems even though he might have to ask for directions from a local a couple of times.
    * Gloria’s Crisis Care Centre’ operates in north Bali around Lovina. Gloria offers free health care to impoverished Balinese villagers who would otherwise get no assistance at all. See ‘Glorias’.
    * Carry For Kids is an organisation fostering the carrying of selected goods to many third world locations including Bali. Many (Most? – All?) travellers to Bali soon learn to go lightly and buy essential supplies at their destination, but return home with bulging cases. This organisation seeks to use the empty suitcase space going in to Bali by taking donations to charities. http://carryforkids.org/about/history.html will give you the idea. They care equally for all needy children in Indonesia, regardless of race or creed.
    * The Hope Children’s Home. Provides accommodation to about 100 children of all ages until they become independent. Ages range from a few months to early 20’s. A child here can be fully sponsored for US$20 per month. It is unashamedly a Christian organisation and teaching the doctrines and conversion are an essential part of their program for the children in their care. www.helpingbali.com ; e-mail info@helpingbali.com.
    * St Francis of Assisi Orphanage in Dalung about 35 min by car from Kuta. English language is a bit of a problem. Check with Kerry or Milton at the Indo National Restaurant now in Jl Padma, Legian, near the Lokha Hotel but on the opposite side.
    * An orphanage way out on the west coast (and which, like Alas Kasih in Negara, consequently gets overlooked usually) is Giri Asih at the small village of Malaya in the Negara district near Gilimanuk which is the ferry port to Java. Donations of money are welcomed and are officially registered and can be for very specific, donor elected projects, which is a bit unusual. Donors are encouraged to visit and re-visit to check on progress of their selected project. For info and photos contact barrygw@bigpond.com.
    * Yayasan Anak-Anak is in Mengwi, about 40 minutes east of the southern tourist areas at Banjar Gede, Abian Base, MENGWI, Badung. Ph 081 2385 8337. The Director is Yayuk Kanti; E-mail y_kanti@hotmail.com.
    *  The Kupu Kupu (‘Butterfly’) Foundation cares for the needs of physically and mentally handicapped Balinese. They have a gallery at Jl Tirta Tawar 22A, Banjar Kutuh Kelod, UBUD. Ph Begonia Lopez (62) 081 236 287 20. E-mail kupubali@yahoo.com, web site www.yamp.com/kupukupu . Their aim is to release these people from the confining cocoon of their disabilities. http://yamp.com/KupuKupu/ . Located in Jimbaran it is easy to visit here.
    * YKIP www.ykip.org or (http://www.mitrais.com/ , contact Wiwie Harris) and YKIDS (http://www.mysitespace.com/ contact Sarti Pramana) are organisations set up by business to organise educational relief for children orphaned in the Bali bombing at the Kuta nightclubs. Both contact persons are English speakers. The costs of administering the donations are absorbed into the normal daily business costs and ALL donations go to the children’s benefit. Following the terrorist bombing  YKIP estimated that 31% of children were forced out of education (either temporarily or permanently) in Bali. Following the tsunami devastation at Christmas time in '04 YKIP has estimated that over half a million dollars (Australian) is needed to get children back into schools in Indonesia. Donations of US$150 per year to YKIP ('05 costs) will meet the costs of a child's primary education. US$250 is required for secondary students. If these costs help prevent future terrorism they may be insignificant in the future lives of ourselves and our children.
    * KEMBALI is an educational support program in the Gianyar Regency with links to Rotary but run by the Bali Hotels Association through YKIP, a well known and respected organisation. www.ykip.org/.
    * IDEP Foundation is an Indo Non Government Organisation that seems to believe in teaching men to fish instead of giving them fish every day. Presently (’05) focused on Aceh after the tsunami the have many environmentally friendly projects to help the Balinese in all sorts of ways. Have a look at their very comprehensive web site, www.idepfoundation.org/index.html.
    * The Southern Cross Bali Association Incorporated is organised by Ken and Christine, southerncrossbaliassocinc@hotmail.com, with help from others including travellers Scully, Smudge and Roo-Ted, who do all sorts of good works, in schools and particularly for the disabled. They have wheelchairs to lend to those in need, tourists included. All they ask is a donation to the Association in return. Phone numbers are 0414 924 745 and 0431 985 878. Even if you don’t need a wheelchair or some other help in Bali you can still make a donation to Westpac account 036-127-177967, ABN 22615 162 524. Part of their works also involves clothes, medications, bandages, antiseptics, saline solutions and stomach soothers. Donations are welcomed.
    * Kerri and Milton at the Indo National Restaurant in Jl Padma have good and independent contacts in the charitable organisations of Bali. If you really want to know what is needed and how to help go and talk to them. (And have a meal too, you won’t be disappointed.)
    * Asri Mara at Alus Tailors E-mail alusasri@yahoo.com, is a member of the Bali-Taman Rotary Club which has school projects going on in different areas. Work includes providing basic furniture such as student desks and re-roofing schools to keep the kids dry. She has excellent English skills and is a fine tailor. Alus Tailor and Boutique, Jl Raya Kuta No. 408, Ph(0361) 753 646.
    * Another Rotary contact is in Nusa Dua, nusaduarotary@vsrotarybali.org. In particular they support a school for deaf children, Sekola Luar Biasa-Bali, in Jimbaran. The school takes children from anywhere in Bali or the nearby islands, 150 in total in 2003 with about 50 from outside Bali who get no financial support from their homes. Their need is for funds for fees (this is a common need at schools and orphanages throughout Bali as there is no government support) and for normal school supplies of pencils, pens, books, paper and art materials.
    * There is a Muslim orphanage, Al-Islam, at 178 Jl Raya Pemogan, Ph 725 075. They may be Muslim but they are still just kids in need and I don't think we should lower ourselves by discriminating. Perhaps being Muslim our visits and donations here might have more future impact than we realise.
    * If you want to provide food for a deprived group, try a large box of Sari Mie instant noodles (40 packs) for Rp30,000, and a large container of drinking water Rp5,000 (about 75 cents Aust.) a bit over Aus$5 in total.
    * Readers of the Bali Travel Forum have recently been made aware of the ‘Rubbish Tip People’ near Sanur. If you’ve ever wondered where all of the islands rubbish goes it is here, in meters-high mounds running for kilometres. People actually live here on the dump, scavenging for an existence. Donations of almost anything connected with the essences of life will be welcomed and can be left at the Adopta Coop on Jl Gunung Sari 28C. To find it go along Jl Imam Bonjol towards Denpesar, past the Alpha Supermarket (on your left) and turn right just after the petrol station onto Gunung Sari.Adopota is on the left side of the road. Ph Niluh on 0813 5320 5646 for closer directions or driver Made on 0812 395 7296. E-mail erni_erniati@yahoo.com. They also now have a more central shop in Gang Ronta off Poppies Lane II in Legian-Kuta. The Adopta Coop is a group of women made widows by the Sari Club bombing. They have learnt sewing skills and with donated machines organised themselves into a business cooperative and are now more than self-supporting, they are helping others such as the Rubbish Dump people and orphanages. Go and see their wares and support their self-help initiative. They will print polo's and T-shirts for you. Polo's about Aus$12 each. Their web site is at http://pacungbali.com/adopta.
    Rice, noodles, water, insect repellent, sunhats, gloves - - - . The 9 basic food list generated as a months sustenance supply for a family of four after the bomb included; 30Kg rice, sugar, cooking oil or margarine, beef and chicken meat, eggs, milk powder, corn, kerosene (also called paraffin) for cooking fuel, and iodised salt. A simpler ‘quick fix’ was rice, sugar, oil, instant noodles and iodised salt.
    Text books in English are fine, preferably with pictures that relate to the writing. Op Shops or other charitable outlets in your home town are often inundated with books and might be happy to give you a number for a worthy cause. Airlines will often allow you a few Kg’s over weight if you are taking donations and arrangements are made beforehand.
    * Panti Asuhan Salam is a small Orphanage in Tabanan. The address is Jalan Rama Gang 1/No9, TABANAN, Bali. Ph (62 361) 810 086. The Director is I Gusti Ketut Suardana. The orphanage is north west of Ubud off the road to Tanah Lot. There were 17 girls and 28 boys there in '05, aged from 5 to 18 years. Like all orphanages any donation will be put to good use but the greatest need is for money to pay school fees.
    * The Rotary Club of Ubud has a Support Ubud Schools scheme. You can drop off goods for the schools at Saraswati Bungalows on Jl Raya, Ubud, across the road from the Casa Luna Restaurant and a bit right. You can also use Ibah Resorts and Spa. You will be invited to use a visitors book to log details of your donations as across check that everything get where you intend and there will be a follow-up thank you too.
    * A new (mid '06) support program for children in 3 schools in Bontihing, about 25 Km east of Singaraja, is run by the Gawler and Light Rotary club. There are 400 children needing education sponsorship and the program follows a very well known one set up by the Swan Districts Rotary. www.gawlerlightrotary.org.au. E-mail esp@gawlerlightrotary.org.au .

20. Panti Asuhan Jodie O'Shea is a fairly new orphanage in Denpasar. Jodie O'Shay was a young Australian woman who died from her injusies following the Bali bombing. Her courage convinced her Balinese carer to establish a memorial. The orphanage was established with the aid of a US$15,000 donation and initially housed children taken from another orphanage where they were being abused and is now also helped by tha Southern Cross Bali Association. It now houses about 35 children (Jan '08) with a large proportion from very poor farming communities on the island of Sumba. There are more details at http://www.careforkidsbali.com/.

21. The tall, slim, colourful flags on bamboo poles are common. They are called ‘Lelontek’ or ‘Umble umble’. You can buy them on the very top floor of the Denpasar markets. AppRp.60,000. These are traditionally religious decorations with their origins in ancient China, their colours associated with the arts of feng shui. They signify the presence of a god at an event. The tapering top that droops over towards the ground symbolises the belief that even the mightiest of gods or beings must have humility and respect for the earth that nourishes them. ‘Man must be like the stalk of rice, the more bountiful the head of grain the more the stalk bows to its source.’ They are now frequently used simply as graceful decorations in motion. If you buy some for the back yard Aussie Customs will not let you bring in the bamboo poles and the same variety and size are not easy to find in milder Oz. In South Australia smallish bamboos can be found along un-developed river banks but there are larger ones around Pt Wakefield and at Stone Hut on the way to Pt Augusta I hear. Let me know if you hear of others please.
    Similar in style but made from a bamboo stalk with highly decorative cut fronds are the ceremonial village street decorations called ‘Penjor’.
    The temple umbrellas, usually in crimson or gold colour and on long poles, are called ‘Payung’. They are associated wit religious ceremonies and therefore not seen as decorations by the Balinese. They serve to shade the gods and indicate their importance, thus pleasing the deities.
    A great source of Umble Umbles is Ud Sri Rejeki at Jl Raya Kuta No 97, Ph 753 477 or 765 739. Not only flags and decorations but all sorts of bits and pieces for ceremonies. Flags are about Rp40-50,000 depending on how many you want and how well you can bargain.

22. August is the beginning of the dry season and is popular for cremations, to which tourists will be welcomed if they are not too intrusive.

4.    SAYING – language prompts.

Try http://www.filosbali.net/Phrases.htm  for a pocket-size list you can print off and take with you. It fits easily into a shirt pocket, wallet or purse.

1. One of the best ‘ice-breakers’ we have found in Bali is to introduce yourself (and you will be asked who you are, nicely, a number of times) in the Balinese fashion. You are Wayan if you are first born, Made if you are the second child, Nyoman if the third and Ketut if you are the fourth then add your given name. For example; I’m Wayan John and this is Nyoman Betty.

2. Another ice breaker is the formal Hindu greeting, 'Om swasti astu', (may God watch you, spoken with the normal Christian hand in prayer attitude) that even Muslims accept although they are even more impressed if you can remember their special version, 'Assalam mu alaikum' which does not need the hand action.

3. ‘Salamat pagi’, Good morning – to 11am. ‘S.. siang’ – 11 to 3. ‘S.. soree’ – to 6pm. ‘S.. malam’ – Good night. The spoken emphasis is on the last syllable, eg ‘Salamat pageeee’. The reply if often simply, ‘Pageeee’.

4. ‘Salamat tidur’ – Sleep well. ‘S.. tingal’, Goodbye (when leaving). ‘S..jalan’ – Goodbye (when you are the one who is staying and a guest is leaving).

5. ‘Halo!’ (‘Ahhloh’), Hello. ‘Ayo’, Hey/Hello (informal). ‘Sampi jumpa’, See you, Bye bye (informal).

6. ‘Terima kasih’, Thank you.

7. ‘Sama sama’ You are welcome – the response to ‘Terima kasih’.

8. ‘Apa kabar?’, How are you? ‘Bagus.’ - Exceptionally good. ‘Baik baik’. – Very Well. ‘Baik’. – Well.

9. 'Enak' or 'enak enak' - delicious.

10. ‘Sin can can’ – No problem!

11. ‘Ma’af’ – Sorry. ‘Permissi’ – Excuse me.

12. ‘Berapa’ (pron ‘brapa’) – ‘How much’. Understand that once said you have already entered into the bargaining/purchase process and if the vendor agrees to your last price you are morally obliged to buy the goods.

13. ‘Ya’, Yes. ‘Tidak’. No, (Not polite. Avoid if possible.) ‘Tidak Mau’ – don’t want. ‘Singla pis’ – no money.

14. ‘Hari ini’ – today. ‘Besok’ – tomorrow. ‘Besok besok’ – sometime.

15. ‘Bisa ambil foto?’ – Can I take a photo?

16. ‘Saya belum lancar di Bahasa Indonesia’. – I’m not fluent in Indonesian.

17. ‘Tolong Bicara pelan-pelan’ – Please speak slowly.

18. ‘Saya kurang mengerti’ – I don’t understand.

19. ‘Air panas dan dingin’ – Hot and cold water. ‘Botol air minum’. – Bottled drinking water.

20. ‘Ketas wese’ - Toilet paper. ‘Way-say’ – W.C. Dimana kamar kecil?’ – Where is the toilet?

21. ‘Berapper hargar?’ – How much?

22. ‘Cepat cepat!’ Hurry – But don’t expect any reaction.

23. ‘Apotic’ – chemist - pharmacy.

24. ‘Jalan Jalan’ – walking. ‘Jalan Jalan Jalan’ – walking a long way.

25. ‘Satu’ – one. ‘Dua’ – two. ‘Tiga’ – three. ‘Empat’ – four. ‘Lima’ – five.

5.    SHOPPING.

If you’re not sure what you can safely (legally) bring back into Oz have a look at the horses mouth – www.customs.gov.au/osgoods.htm. Other countries will certainly have a similar site for reference.

There are a growing number of fixed price outlets in Bali (all major department stores and restaurants are fixed price) but generally off the streets and in the markets you will be expected to bargain. The opening price will be about two or three times the price that the seller expects. With good grace and some humour you debate the sums until you reach a figure they all are happy with. You will get used to hearing, “Good for you – good for me”; “I give you best morning price” and “You mak me bunkroot!” frequently.
It is considered to be the height of rudeness to begin bargaining for something you really don’t want to buy or to refuse the purchase if the seller accepts your offer.
There is a good section on one travellers views an the art of bargaining at this link. Bargaining advice.

A recent scam which is upsetting shoppers is the habit in some smaller stores of ringing up extra items at the till, or entering incorrect (higher) prices for purchased goods. When you leave a correction is made and the difference pocketed by the operator. If you think you’re being cheated don’t be afraid to check the bill or to go back and check the shelf price of an item. 
Be polite when you point out the ‘unfortunate’ error – losing your cool is seen as a degrading weakness by the Balinese. Calm and reasoned logic will gain you far more respect and cooperation.
Try to keep a sense of perspective during the process and remember that a difference of a few hundred rupiah is really chicken feed! – a few cents or pence or escuderas or punts or something.

‘Wartels’, post & phone shops, are often also bank agencies and very reliable money changers (perhaps even more so than Kodak/PT Central outlets) who are happy to accept a photo copy of the first page of your Passport when changing Travellers Cheques – a much safer option. They are not as well used as PT Central outlets yet but as travellers find out about them they will become much more popular.  
Exchange rates are best in the south around Kuta. 

Regulars suggest as follows - Food stuffs try Makro or Galael or Pepitos: for clothes try Ramayana or Matahari's although Ramayana might be better for larger western sizes: Tiara Dewata is popular with the locals but may be a bit dearer for foods.

1. Photo enlargements are very cheap. Take with you, from home, any negatives of photos you want enlarged and get them done in Bali. Get the good photos you take there enlarged to take home also. (Get digitised service in addition. $12 on CD-ROM.)
   8" x 6" (20cm x 15 cm) enlargements are Rp4,000 (less than A$1), 14" x 10" Rp13,000 (A$2.75) up to 60cm x 50cm Rp52,500 (A$11.25).
   Take photos of your Bali friends and give them enlargements as gifts.
   Disposable underwater cameras are great if snorkelling. Cheaper in Oz at app $17 instead of Rp140-150,000.

2. SUPERMARKETS – Large & small.
   Most supermarkets in the larger centres are open from 9 am to 10 pm. The Bintang in Legian is open from 8 to 11.
   It can be slow and frustrating to endure the payment process at many supermarkets. Dockets seem to be written for every item, taken to a supervisor for checking and eventually passed down a line of '‘do-ers & more checkers'’ at the registers. It seems to be the Balinese way of keeping up female employment but it’s not swift.
   Simple electrical goods such as hot water jugs, toasters etc are cheap to buy (try Macro or the new in, '07, Carrefour– see below) and cheap enough to give to a local family when you leave. Complex electronic stuff will be a worry if you take it home and need to claim on a warranty.

3. Patent medicines are available and cheap at the supermarkets. Local medicines ('Chinese' medicines often) are also available and should not be ignored. Arthritis sufferers might try Salon Pas Gel first or even one of the stronger rubs available such as Voltaren Gell at Rp97,000 in '05.
   Local disinfectants for wounds, scratches and abrasions are effective and much better than ignoring it until you have a full-blown tropical infection problem.
   The local chemists or drug stores are called 'Apotic's'.

4. Tiara Grosir supermarket, Jl Teuku Umar on the west side of Denpasar. Wholesale warehouse that welcomes Bali tourists. Also has food stalls for meals and 2 bakeries. Same owners as Alpha, which is a branch closer to Kuta on Jl Imam Bonjol. Not as big as Macro but there is no charge to enter.

5. Macro SuperStore. Between Kuta & Sanur on left. A sort of a local bulk store. Rp5,000 entrance fee. No children allowed. Multi packs of wide variety of goods very cheap but allow for 10% tax and cost of bags at the check out. Eg. Sharp Rice Cooker A$28. Most consumable goods are in bulk or largest packets. If you don’t buy in bulk the prices are about the same as in the more popular department stores such as Matahari’s. A crate of 16 large beer is just over Rp100,000 and the crate has a deposit of Rp30,000 is cheap being about Aus$1.60 a bottle. If you don’t want to take your crate and bottles back give it to your driver or the person who cleans your room. 24 x 600 ml of water for less than Rp25.000. Chupa Chups (a candy ball on a short stick) are about Rp40,000 for a 100 pack; about Aus 8-10 cents each. The copy-cat Starburst lollypops are a bit cheaper but generally not to the liking of either the Balinese or me after the real thing. If you’re going to an orphanage or a school this is a great place to stock up on a dozen tubes of tooth paste and 100 tooth brushes. A carton of soaps and shampoo, feminine toiletries (yes, the young Balinese girls do use them if they can get them – if not - - -?) etc etc.
   *  There are three Matahari stores in Bali. Kuta, Denpasar and Bali Mall Galeria near the roundabout. There was a fourth in Jl Legian but it closed about 2001.

6. Bintang Supermarket on the main road in Seminyak is quite large and well stocked.

7. There is a Hardy's store at Tabanan, or actually on the by-pass road around Tabanan, a few hundred metres on the right from the start. It is huge and recommended by serious local shoppers despite the distance from the tourist areas. Have a look in if you're passing through.

8. The SuperNova department store on Jl Raya Kuta in Legian is a bit of a surprise in many ways. The range of cosmetics, for example, is not large but if you find what you're looking for they're incredibly cheap. In '06 I came across an unexpected source of maps in Bali, on the first floor of the store. If you want a valued gift for a school that's a bit different get a topographical one of 'Provinsi Bali' at 1:150,000 scale showing roads, towns, ports, rivers, lakes and provincial borders for only Rp20,450 or Aus$3.00 approx. How cheap can a reasonable quality wall map get? They also had similar maps of Indonesia, Australia and the world. Also on the first floor are stationery and paper items that I have seen nowhere else at similarly good prices.

9. The new ('07) Carrefour is a French chain and a remarkable place to see. At least one local says most things are cheaper elsewhere but obviously many tourists are not convinced yet.

10. There is a One Dollar Shop in Kuta at the end of Bakungsari street, opposite the pet shop and next to Super Nova department store. An amazing range of goods all priced at Rp5,000. Jl Raya Legian No 135, Kuta-Legian. There is also one in the Ramayana in Denpasar. Here items are either Rp5,000 or Rp10,000. Another is part of Hardy's super store in Singaraja up north.

11. Locals in Seminyak and Legian often prefer the Alfa Supermarket on Jl Imam Bonjol, Denpasar. In Pasar Sanglah. Ask any decent taxi driver. Very large like the Makro but it’s not necessary to buy in bulk here.

12. Many clothing 'names' have outlets that sell seconds which are often just excess stock. One is Amimale at 82 Jl Raya Kuta. Ph 757 015 or 783 135 and from August '08 also on Jl Raya Legian on the same side as the Bintang Supermarket but a bit up towards Seminyak.

13. For electrical appliances and equipment try UD Kartika Elektronic, Jl Blambangan No 6, Kuta. Ph 754 658. Not far from the Supernova Dept Store.

14. Hairdressing scissors and similar equipment. Try Fortuna opposite Tragia Department store in Denpasar. A surprising range and good to professional quality.
    Also Hair Dressing Supplies, Jl By Pass Ngurah Rai No8, Tuban. It's within walking distance of the Bali Galeria. 5" Jaguar scissors Aus$28.

15. Almost opposite (about 1 Km ?) Macro Superstore on the Sanur By Pass road (on the Kuta side of the turn-off to Benoa Harbour) is a wine shop ('Indowines'?) that sells wine made from Western Australian grape juice for Rp85,000, $15, per bottle. NOT TO BE MISSED! It has a large bottle at the front of the shop. Tourists welcome for a tasting. They will deliver to nearby hotels – (0361) 726 883, Fax (0361) 726 884. Also available at Matahari store in Kuta for Rp125,000, which makes it worth a 5 min taxi ride to get your supplies from the winery. French wines are often cheaper that Australian ones. See ‘Drinking – safely’ just below or via the link in the General section above, and also ‘Eating – safely & enjoyably’ just below or via the link above.
    * Another nearby is Pembangunan Balidwepa Mandiri opposite Bali Kopi on the Bypass road at number 546, Sanur. Ph 284 122; e-mail pbm@indo.net.id. Wines from around the world for less than Rp200,000 including reputable Aussie and French wines as well as casks. Spirits are cheaper than Duty Free I'm told!!
    * The cheapest wine available in Bali is locally made Indico Wines for about Rp 42,000. Hatten Wines, also local, are a bit dearer and a bit more palatable but not to everyone’s taste. We can recommend their slightly sweet 'Alexandria' white wine which won a medal at the London Wine and Spirits Exhibition. Their Bali Hatten Sparkling has also some minor gongs and is quite passable. Easy to get in Ubud but you need to ask around a bit in the south or give Hattens a call for sources.
    * Indowines, Raya Sunset Road No. 166 sells Chilean champagne for about Aus$25 which is quite good. Also stock other good wines. Ph +62 361 756 781.
    * Bali Deli also stocks wine, some of which is quite good but beware of flagon wines that may have spent weeks in an oven-like container before being cleared by Customs. I have been told they will willingly exchange stuff you're not happy with. They open at 11 am but are closed on Tuesdays (April '07).
    * Pit Stop on the beach road next to the Karma Sutra night club is also a good wine source.
    * In '07 there were wine outlets at Bali Jaya Supermarket in Kuta, about 50 strides from Bemo Corner, Nirmala Supermarket on Jl Uluwatu II in Jimbaran and Angusan, Pepito Supermarket in Tuban and the Bintang Supermarket in Seminyak.
    * If you're out on the By Pass Road about 150 metres before Makro try PT Bali Surya Utama (Ph (0361) 723 014) where single bottles or cases are well priced. Jacobs Creek Rp 80,000 (Aus$11) or Rp100,000 for their bubbly (Aus$14), Jim Beam Rp120,000 (Aus$16.75).
    * On the beach road ('pantai') between Seminyak and Kuta you will find the Bottle Shop. You'll find it south of Padma and about 200 paces further south from Melasti St a bit past the Circle K. 700 ml bottles of spirits for Rp130,000 ($14.50 app) Less than Duty Free. If you come to a vacant food court that is only open in the evenings you have passed it.

16. Dijon Food Specialties store is also near this roundabout; or go left from Bemo Corner near Matahari in Kuta – over the bridge and right after the petrol station – about 120 paces on your left from this direction. It stocks many items that you would be familiar with from home and Euro-deli lines. Kuta Poleng Mall, Blok A1-A2, Jl Setiabudhi, Kuta. Ph (0361) 759-636 or 759-638. E-mail dijonfs@indosat.net.id. Web site at http://www.dijon-bali.com/.

17. Alfa Supermart similar to Macro. On Jl Imam Bonjol just out of Kuta going towards Denpasar, 2-3 km. Have a look at the rice cookers and warmers used by the world’s experts on rice. 220 volts but work OK on Ozzie 240v. There is no alcohol sold now (or at Tiara Grossir) as the owners are Islamic.

18. The small mini mart in Jl Padma not far from the corner of Jl Padma Utara got some bad press about prices and funny addition in '05.
    The nearby Loji Supermarket or the Bintang on Jl Legian are probably safer places.

19. Matahari. In Kuta Square and near McDonalds at No 117 Jl Raya Legian in Legian St. Also classy new DFS Mal Galleria, Simpansura St with many other shops near the roundabout with the chariot statue just out of Kuta – NOT Nusa Dua. Also Denpasar. White taxis operate here and need firm persuasion to put the meter on.

20. Ramayana. Denpasar. Recommended hairdresser on top, Johnie Andreas. Foot ‘reflexi" Rp15,000 hair cream bath Rp25,000. Good when you think you’re shopped out.
    There is also a recommended hairdressing shop , including straightening that tropic frizz, at the Secret Garden. Have a look at www.secretgarden-bali.com/. There is an e-mail link where you can make a booking.
    Other recommended hairdressers are;
    Celebes in Legian (see also the Legian District section) do hair straightening amongst the other more normal treatments. Cut and 8 foils for Rp82,000 (Aus$12 app.) mid '06.
    Kudas in Jl Legian near Rum Jungle Road - a colourful shop;
    Cristy's Salon in the lane behind Etnik Cafe on Jl Legian - Ph 766 739 - does not look flash but the results are great;
    Eva Salon near Bemo Corner at the end of Jl Legian - great facials too - ask for Sheryl;
    At the Secret Garden on Jl Melasti near the entrance to the Kuta Lagoon Resort and the traffic lights on Jl Melasti;
    Across the road from the back entrance to the Jayakarta in Legian, in the street that runs parallel to the beach - 'meticulous cut'; 
    De Luzern at Istana Kuta Galeria near Tiara Dewata and Ace Hardware. Yoyo for cutting and Jimmy for colour.
    Celebes Spa and Beauty, Jl Padma Utara No3 - off Jl Padma. next to the Garden View in Legian. Ask for Poppy or e-mail poppysudibyo2000@yahoo.com . Foils, blow wave, blonding etc etc for Rp198.000. Ph 1361 756 420 or 081 3385 126 55; Almost next door to GVC, opposite Loji Supermarket and by a Kodak money changer. Hairdressing ground floor and massage first floor;
    Melasti Spa in Jl Padma Utara, Legian. Good cuts, colour and spa treatments and wonderful decor.

21. Tragia. Diagonally opposite Ramayana, about 400 meters from the exit near Pizza Hut.

22. Tiara Dewata – has a section for collectors of mint and used stamps and notes, including. Japanese Occupation currency. Cheap children’s clothing. Larger version of Alpha (se above.) Also has bumper cars for the kids amusement (and the dads too?) Always seems to us to be somehow different from the usual supermarket/department stores which makes it interesting to stroll through. Have a look at their developing ('07) web site at  www.tiara-dewata.com . Jl May Jend Sutayo 55, Denpasar. (62 361) 235 733.

23. Tiara Grosir.

24. The new Centro Kartika Plaza shopping centre opened late in '04. It's huge with many different shops. Opening specials were bargains but this may not last for too long. It's huge - you can't miss it on the seaward side of Jl Kartika Plaza.

25. For Balinese paintings that are perhaps a bit more original than many try a shop in Jl Legian Kuta between Paddies nightclub and Bemo Corner. Reasonable prices to start with but you can still bargain.

26. The Geneva Handicraft Centre in Kerobokan is establishing a good reputation (’04). It’s at No100 Jl Raya Kerobokan, over the top of the Geneva furniture store. Ph 62 361 733 571. geneva_handicraft@hotmail.com.

27. There are factories making real cane and synthetic cane furniture around the back streets of Kerbokan we believe. Real cane furniture is a feature of shopping in Lombok, the next island to the east of Bali.

28. There is a factory outlet for brand-name clothes called Big Buy Bakungsari. There is on Jl Bakungsari Noss Kuta and at Big Buy, Kuta Centre.

29. Need cossies? Hard to fit? Try Climax shop in a small lane off Jl Legian half way between Poppies II and Melasti street on the beach side. If you come to Bank Negara Indonesia you've gone past it. Standard sizes and made to measure. Their material or yours. climax_ghs@yahoo.com. www.climaxswimwear.com. Jl Legian 363, Kelod Kuta. Ask for Wayan (who else, its Bali after all). Cost Rp80,000 with your own material for one piece. Two pairs for $20 using their own material. Their range is a bit limited.
    ** Also BALI KAYA, Jl Sarinade #2, (off Jl Dyhanapura), Seminyak, Kuta 80361. E-mail bali-kaya@bigfoot.com. Website www.bali-kaya.com.

    ** Visit Alta Rica or Alta Moda fabric shop in the Kuta Istana Galleria shopping centre for a range of lycra's and other stuff. Less than Rp50,000 for enough for one swim suit.

30. If you are not sure of the clothing sizes that are use in Bali try www.onlineconversion.com/ or www.coastshop.com.au/tourist/clothes_sizes.htm .

31. Larger sizes up to 4XL are available in Ketut's shop in Garlic Lane, otherwise known as Sahadewa Street in Legian.
    Also Seashell Shop, Jl Raya Kuta No37, BR Abianbase. 'seashellgirl' on the web. Sizes up to 4XL.
    Also shop opposite The Pub'
    Jacques Ruc also has large sizes. Jl Raya Seminyak No54-56, past the Bintang Supermarket and on the opposite side, set back a bit from the footpath. Ph(+62)61-72 734. 'Like a Double Bay boutique'. Fixed prices.
    "Chitra". In Jl Legian No439. Ph 762 471. Past Melasti street towards Seminyak.
    Large shoes at Jocelyn's shop opposite Matahari in Kuta.

32. For shoe size conversions  try  http://www.i18nguy.com/l10n/shoes.html .

33. For shoes try R2U ('Ready to Use'), have mover from No5 Padma Utara in early '08. It can only be because they needed more space to hold their stock! They are now at Kamponeng Bali, Jl Merta Nadi No77X, Kuta. Phone Lely Tjandrawati on 081 138 5079 or the shop at (0361) 240 991. Be warned that Lely's phone English is not too good but she is OK face to face. 'Packed to the ceiling with shoes'. Same with handbags next door, and ask to see the beaded shawls too. Next door to the old shop in Padma Utara is an authorised Swarovski crystal shop.

34. CHILDREN’S FOOD – Many familiar brands are available in most tourist centres but to make sure of a peaceful start to your holiday take 1 or 2 days supply of familiar food with you and slowly wean baby on to more readily available products if necessary. Nappies, powder etc are readily available but probably not much cheaper than home prices as many are imported. 2 for 2 and free giveaways are often offered. Milton tablets, a sterilising container and a bottle brush might be worth the space when you are packing however. Remember not to use the reticulated water in Bali for anything except careful washing.
    Several brands of nappies are available. Mamma Poko got the thumbs up from one mum in '06. The weight/size information on the pack  seems correct

35. Baby sitting services are provided by many of the larger hotels but if you're does not the services of Casey, who lives in Sanur but works also in the Kuta/Legian areas has been recommended by Forumites who have use her services. A 42 year old single mum of two now teenage boys, she knows the ropes. Ph 081 337 290 491.

36. CHILDREN’S CLOTHES -
    Indigo Kids in Legian-Kuta.
    Matahari’s Department Store.
    Kuta Kidz near Bemo Corner, Kuta. They also have a seconds shop towards Seminyak.
    At a little shop next to an ATM that proved a godsend in the main street through Kediri, a small town near Tabanan, there is Maya Gogo, rated the best and cheapest in all Bali if you're out that way.
    There are fairy shops in Bali where you can get all of the current costumes as well as the old favourites. One is about 300 metres from the MacDonalds entry to Poppies I from the beach end, on the left by a hairdressers and across the lane from a Mini Mart.  Another called Swells is in Jl Melasti and a third is on the second dogleg corner of Jl Padma Utara in Legian. Another is at No 54 Jl Double Six in Legian/Seminyak.
    'Stroberi' (Strawberry) is a little teenagers shop on the Bali Mall Baleria. Funky accessories that these kidz love. It's on the right as you go to the supermarket.

37. Laundry. Getting your clothes clean and pressed is easy with most hotels having a good service. There are also many (cheaper but still good to very good) laundries on the streets. 'So Clean' are developing a small chain across the island and have the recommendation of ex-pats living on the island. Look for the 'So Clean' signs in your local district. Some travellers even get all of their clothes both new and used, cleaned before they leave. Their smell of Bali brings back memories for weeks afterwards at home. Many laundries will pick up and deliver too. Some prices ('07) - Business Shirt washed and pressed (folded or on your hanger) Rp1,700 (about 20 cents Aus); Dress as above Rp2,300; Bras/panties Rp1,000; Jacket Rp3,000 etc.

38. HAND BAGS. Most of the big stores carry the standard lines, often at great discounts. A small store that dares to be different is Top Ten Branded in Melasti Street near the Legian Beach Hotel, also in Jl Padma on the left a little past the junction with Padma Utara.
    Tommy in Kuta Square also has A grade bags from the well known makers.

39. Super Nova. Kuta. Good internet room on top. Reports in '06 said that they had the cheapest range of cosmetics in Bali.

40.  Arum Agung. Jl Danau Tamblingan not too far from the Hyatt in Sanur.

41. Sarina’s on the By Pass Road near the Raddison Hotel.

42. Hero’s. On the left about half way between Tuban and Denpasar. Fruit & Veg. Time Zone. Stationery.

43. If you’re shopping for clothes it’s not a bad idea to wear a pair of bathers rather than normal underclothes. This makes changing easier and can also free you from the change room queue if you can duck behind a rack.

44. Stock House, several, Jl Raya Kuta 100 M from petrol station. Export quality including larger sizes.

45. Surf Gear factory outlet. Jl Ngurah Rai By Pass near the big statue, on opposite side of road about 400 m past Bali Mall and Galleria. Ph 766 646. Rip Curl button collared shirts Rp 122,000 – Volcon dress Rp90,000 – Rip Curl dresses Rp70-150,000 – men’s T’s from Rp80,000 – bikinis Rp122,000.

46. Sarong Warehouses, Jl 66, off Jl Raya Legian, it goes to the beach where you can get a cold drink from Benny’s before going back for all of those things you decided not to buy on your way down first time. Fixed prices from Rp10,000. Different patterns in each shop.

47. Geneva Handicrafts and Furniture – Jl Raya Legian. Wholesale prices.

48. ‘Baliopoly’, local board game like ‘Monopoly’. Rp200,000. A$40. - Cheapest delivered by makers – 732 617 baliopoly@yahoo.com  www.baliopoly.webkita.com. Don’t expect great quality after the first edition. In fact, can you get it at all now or has production ended? In 2005 this seemed to be the situation and the only options now will probably be to find a second hand set although the following was posted by 'Cooper' in late August;  'We were in Bali in July/August and I saw it at Gramedia in the Discovery mall in Kuta. It was as you walk in, go straight ahead to the sporting section, and it was in front of the desk where you buy the tennis rackets and squash rackets. There would have been at least 10 games if not more. And they were about $25 AUD. Also seen Sept '05 in the Centro Store in Discovery Mall. It's on the first floor in the sports section near the book shop overlooking Jl Kartika Plaza. Plain and magnetic sets available. Further reports of availability in mid '07.

49. Business Cards – Colourful plastic – Aus$5/100 – Phone Ketut 082 361 3573. Also stickers, labels, T-shirts. I have to say that I find plastic cards a pain in the you-know-what because you can't write on them, which is highly desirable when, 12 months later, you want a note of who and what and why you got it.

50. Spa products are available from The Spa Factory in Jimbaran on Jl Toya ring.

51. Your friendly shopkeeper will politely ask you where you are staying. Do not confess to staying anywhere in Nusa Dua as this is the signal to extract the highest price from a rich tourist.

52. Gold prices. If you have a home price per ounce dividing this by 30.1034 will give you the price per gram. 24 ct. Bali gold is usually 22 ct. but the above calculation will be close enough to give you a good idea of comparative prices. In March '05 the price was about Aus$10/gram. If your purchases are weighed beware of the weight of cheap stones being included in the weight and charged at gold prices. Better quality stones can be purchased and put into your jewellery for the cost of the stone and app Rp25,000 fitting charge. Price varies daily. It was Rp70,000/gram April ’01 and Rp70,000 again in late ’02, but varied greatly in between. 18 ct (stamped ‘70%’, which is actually 16.9 ct.) is also available and may be preferable in some items where there is a risk of greater wear that the softer 22 ct. will not stand for long. You’ll pay about 1/3 of the western prices for similar items. Most of the gold dealers are Chinese or Arab. Jl Hasanuddin in Denpasar is generally regarded as the ‘gold street’ in Bali.

53. Superior quality jewellery – Mayang Bali store is on an acute corner between Kuta markets and the ‘back’ entrance to Matahari Department store.
     * If you're really into internationally classy jewellery you must visit the Runa Museum and Gallery at Banjar Abiansemal, Lodtunduh, Ubud. Its not far off the main road into Ubud and a question or two by your driver if you give him this address will see you at the serene entrance to an eye-popping display of commissioned works and work for sale. Ph (62-361)980 710. E-mail runa@elga.net.id or runa_bali@hotmail.com. There's a Rp10,000 entry charge but if you buck at this then you're not really serious.
    * To turn your personal designs into reality try Perama Dewata Gems and Jewellery at 6 Kalimantan Road, Denpasar (03161 242 334 or 081 933 091 946. The owner is Bruhan who speaks excellent English. Inexpensive and reliable. 
    * Also Putu Artana, in the village of Anturan near Lovina in the north. He is a Master Craftsman who makes unique pieces and will make jewellery to your design in gold or silver.
    * In '06 we found Solomon Silver II in Jl Werkudara in Legian, not far from the Flying Piano Restaurant and Yutz's place, either of which will feed you delightfully while you gloat over your purchases. Do not confuse the quality of the silver available here with that you can get more cheaply at street stalls. A little dearer but your girlfriend will know the difference in quality and workmanship. If you buy enough you will automatically get business prices!
    * Most outlets in Celuk (the so called 'silver village') are for tourist with tourist prices but SSS Silver and UC Silver are exceptions. The former  have a wide selection although nothing really unique but the prices are very good. UC Silver (great toilets) has great jewellery of different designs and top quality. Good value but this does not mean cheap.
    * Also Bujangga Silver, Jl Tuban on way to airport, on right next to ANA restaurant.
    * Purnama Silver Jewellery at Lodtundah Ubud. Visit www.purnama-sari.com.
    *  Also in Ubud try Studio Perak and Hari Ini Silver. Nice pieces available at reasonable prices.
    * Made Murjani (fortuna@denpasar.wasantara.net.id) manufactures jewellery in a small factory and exports, mainly to the US. She will do custom work also. A display of the work can be seen at her home in Bedulu.
    * There is a group of crafts people at the Bandem Community of Silversmiths in Singapadu, just north of the Bird and Reptile Parks. Look for the sign on the main road. They have jewellery and beads. 
    * Perama Dewata, Jl Padanggalk No 11/4, Denpasar (Ph 288 398) has recommendations as an honest jewellery sales and repair place with cheaper prices than 'Gold Street', Jl Hasanuddin.
    * Putra Silver is in the village of Batubulan on the way to Ubud. A 2 story, white building on the right hand side. Good prices.
    * U C Silver is a very large manufacturer in the village of Batu Bulan. Big exporters with many fine designs.
    * Putu Yasa in Jl Melasti almost opposite Gosha's Restaurant. High quality, helpful and reliable.
    * Bintang Silver. Jl Padma Utara on the right going towards Rum Jungle Road. Fixed price and easy to deal with.
    * Jewellery repairs can be reliably done at many places including Mayang Bali (see above) where you can watch the jewellers at work and keep an eye on your stones. It is also done by jewellers in the gold shops near the markets in Hasanudin street in Denpasar. One recommended is Permata Dewata, 6 Kalimantan Road, Denpasar. Ph (0361) 242 334. Bruhan is the owner and his English is excellent.
    * Also in the jewellery shop in the Balihai Resort building in Tuban at the end of Jl Wana Segara and in the Kuta Paradiso Hotel.
    * An honest jeweller who is making something smaller to fit will give you the gold or whatever that he has taken out. It does not burn up when it's removed.
    ** Highly recommended in '07 is Audrey Veronika who was a jeweller with another company until it changed hands and the new policies re dealing with tourists jewellery did not suit her standards. She has branched out on her own as Bali Gold Jewellery in the foyer of the Kuta Paradiso Hotel on Kartika Plaza street in Tuban. Have a look at www.baligoldjewelry.com . Phone +62.361.761414 ext 7809 or Mobiles +62.81.139 7889 or +62.361.797 1855; e-mail Audrey@baligoldjewelry.com. Mention Leonie from the Bali Travel Forum for especially dedicated business. New pieces to your design or stock items and top quality repairs or re-modelling.
    * Permata Dewata Gems and Jewellery is at No6, Kalimantan Road, Denpasar. Ph (0361) 242 334 or 081 2387 5252.  Bruhan is the craftsman who will supply, make or re-make anything in jewellery. Quality and integrity at low prices.
    * Nyoman Sanggra is a gold and silver smith at Selat Apuan Singapadu in Gianyar. It will be easiest if you have an Indonesian speaker with you if one sided conversations around a calculator bother you. The work is of very high quality.
    * If a group intends to buy in quantity at least 1 million rupiah (about Aus$150) try Gede at igedeparta_bagus@hotmail.com or phone him on +62 81 558 787 269. He will bring an enormous selection to your hotel room for your selection. Ask for men's or women's jewellery or a mixture of both. It is of high quality and very cheap when bought in large in quantity.
    * Perlu Jewellery on Jl Laksmana No44A (opposite Cornerstore) has been describes as a place for silver jewellery you WILL wear and not look as though you've just been to Bali.

54. A jewellery making course is run at Studio Perak on Jl Hanoman in Ubud, about 100 paces down from Raya Ubud.

55. ‘Face To Face Engraving’. Have a look at www.facetoface-bali.com/index.htm . They engrave your photos onto gold, silver brooches, bracelets, lockets etc. Ramayana, Bali Mall, Jl Diponegoro Denpasar, Floor 1, south entrance. Ph 0817 345 744.

56. WOODEN WARE. Customs in your home country will probably want to look very closely at all wooden stuff that you want to bring home from Bali. When you buy stuff it’s a good idea to give it a few sharp taps on a solid surface and look closely to see if any fine dust falls out that might indicate a borer infestation. Do this for bamboo furniture as wall as other wood; it’s no fun to get it home and find that your house is suddenly infested with an exotic pest. Check the surfaces, including the bottom and under any legs that might have been in contact with the ground, for small holes which might either be open or might have been plugged with dust or glued-in plugs.
    Customs seem to appreciate it if you put all your small wooden ware in one bag so that their job is a little easier. We use a cloth bag with a draw string in the neck. It’s easy to carry over and to bring back. If you find an infestation in some small article you could try putting it into a suitable size plastic bag and sealing it up with a dose of Diazinon (commonly found as an ingredient in pet washes) or Lorsban from garden supplies.
    Top quality wooden things are quite expensive, not at all like the cheap market goods. Some of the best is available at the Tliem Gallery in Mas, a village north of Seminyak. It is a short walk north of the Tantra Gallery, also a place to buy quality art works in wood. Small pieces are really not expensive but the big works are although they are excellent value if you want to collect quality pieces. Even if you’re not prepared to pay the prices asked they are worth a visit to get an idea of how the quality and the prices vary. We also find that Mayang Bali in Kuta between Matahari and the art markets have excellent stuff.
    Much of the wood products purchased in Bali are made from timber that is only partly dried (if at all) and when taken home to less tropical climes will dry out somewhat and warp, shrink, bend or split. Be prepared for this and don't blame the workers.

57. Duty Free allowances into Australia are now goods to the value of A$900 (half for those under 18 years),2.25 litres of alcohol for over 18's only, 250 cigarettes or 250gm tobacco. If you are over in any one of these categories you will be charged duty on ALL of your possessions in that category.  Note that these allowances do NOT apply to stuff you might want to take into Indonesia where the allowances are less, only 1 litre of alcohol for example.

58. Customs will not allow Banana products into Oz as they are very dangerous. Similarly raw hide (like dog chews) that is sometimes used in craft products and to encase candles etc. Water hyacinth is another product that will set off alarm bells with Customs. If they see one piece of it they will turn you upside down looking for any more - or anything else. It is a pale brown grass-like strand often woven into table runners, place mats, cushion covers etc. If you press on it with your finger nail it is soft, even when dry. Any of these things  will cost you from $60 to have irradiated if you really want to keep them!!!
    Other products which are prohibited imports from Bali to Australia (and other countries probably have similar restrictions/web pages) can be reviewed at http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page.cfm?area_id=5&nav-id=292 .

59. Stone carvings are very common in Bali and add an atmosphere to your garden at home. Try the carving village of Batubulan, a few kilometres towards Gianyar  north of Ubud and about 30 minutes from Seminyak, or 40 from Kuta. Drive slowly up the road looking at the wares and them get out and walk downhill to do your shopping. Your driver can follow you in the car and pick up your goods so you wont have the load to carry. Some shoppers say that the village of Singapadu, just off the main road at Batubulan, is even better. There is spectacular scenery around here also.

60. Ask someone to point out a tree of Tupaka flowers. The wonderful perfume will attract you because it will be familiar but identifying it is elusive.
    Want flowers for a gift? Strangely they are not easy to find in the land of a thousand flowers but if you're in Bedugul there will be a good selection.
    * If you're not in Bedugul try Heliconia shop in Seminyak, Jl Raya Seminyak. Ph (62-361) 732 700. The shop is next to a large gallery on the right hand side as you go up north. Highly recommended. They will deliver but you might need to say that its for a room if you order sight unseen. One order at a common Aussie price was so large that it had to be left in the hotel foyer.
    * Just out of Sanur, on the road to Denpasar there are many gardens including orchid growers where you can buy the ultimate flower, Anggrek, or orchids. The Bali Orchid Gardens regrettably do not now sell cut flowers ('05). Or do they? In '06 there was a post that said they had started again. Anyway its worth a trip to see the variety.
    * Pepitos Supermarket in Tuban, towards the airport end of town always has some nice arrangements in a flower cooler.
    * Rosa Flowers Ph 081 558 009 350.
    * In Sanur try Tropicana which is opposite Hardy's Supermart and use all tropical flowers.
    * At the end of Jl Seminyak turn sharpish left into Jl Oberoi. There is a good florist almost at the intersection. In '07 Tuberose were Rp400 a stem. There are lots of exotic blooms to choose from and they will make up to your wishes and deliver for you.

61. BEADS – in June of '06 we were staggered by the number of bead outlets that had blossomed since our previous visit only 6 months before. Jl Werkudara is only a short, sort of backwater street in Legian but here alone I counted 17 shops offering beads in bulk, matched strings or made up into jewellery and 'bling'.
    * A warehouse for beads and related items in Jl Werkudara is Mandans Mas. Ph (62 361) 633 633. www.mandanamas.com.
    * Toko Central is on a prominent corner in Kuta and I bet you've seen it a dozen times and never realised what an amazing place it really is. Even if you're not into beads and other sewing things you'll be stunned by the sheer size, variety and colour of their shop stock and the warehouse at the other end of the row of shops. This is where the locals shop and you'll get the same prices - no bargaining! Huge variety. 4Kg A$40. 100 grams for as little as Rp2,000. Lucky Chinese brass coins and tokens as well as beads and threads and sewing equipment. From Jl Legian turn left at Bemo Corner and go on until you cross the river bridge. The road bends to the left and there is a group of shops right on the corner on the right with a sign, ‘Toko Central’. Its only about half a kilometre from Bemo Corner. Their English is not too good but point or self-select and they write the price down form you. Be patient. No silver beads but lots of glazed, seed and plastic ones. A variety of other stocks - woven cotton necklace threads, glues, sequins, buttons, ribbons, patches, cloth flowers, feathers etc. also. INCREDIBLE.
    [The address, Jl Raya Kuta No 105 C-D, Kuta. Ph 764 323, is for either Toko Central or Bujangga Silver. I’d be pleased if someone could confirm which it is.]
    * Olivias is in Jl Sahadewa (between Melasti and Padma) towards the Melasti end on the western side. Smaller than Toko Central but they have tubular beads which Central do not. This is also a great shopping street with a market on the corner and further down there are DVD’s, leather, shoes and good restaurants.
    * Bujangga Silver on Jl Raya Tuban between the airport and Kuta has silver beads and pendants that are rare. Rp3,000/gram.
    * Toko Mawar might be an offshoot of Toko Central. Its on Jl Imam Bonjol in Denpasar.
    * Behind Queen's Tandoor Indian Restaurant, across the road from Made's Warung in Legian, is a bead shop in a house. Ask the Security guy to show you. May be better than Toko Central.
    * Silver beads are made and sold at a small shop in Bedroom Mukti, Singapadu, Sukawati. Ni Wayan Supartiwi, who does not have a good command of English, (so patience is needed,) owns the shop. A good local driver will get you there without worries. The phone number is 0361 294 232, but unless you have a good command of Bahasa Indonesia get your hotel clerk to phone for you. Prices are in the range of Rp2,500 / gram.
    * You can also try the Bandem Community of Silversmiths, Bedroom Sengguan Singapuda in Sukawati (0361 298 688 (bandemsilver@dps.centrin.net.id) or Koming Ayu, I Nyoman Rupadana, Jl Raya Celuk Sukawati, Gianyar, 0361 298 302, rupanada@indo.net.id.
    * Solomon Silver II is in Jl Werkudara, Legian, just around from Jl Padma Utara. If you buy enough you are given business prices.
    There is (was) a stall on the second level of the old Denpasar markets. It has probably moved to the new ones.
    * Buana Raya is also in Denpasar. A local cab driver could find it for you.
    * Bali Silver Beads, http://bali-silver-beads.com/ , Jl Sidakarya, Perum. Calista Karya Indah A-10, Denpasar. Ph (62 812) 391 9977.
    * Vista Shop Jl Legian Kelod 386, Legian. By Circle K store. Silver beads.
    * A bead shop on Jl 66. It is on the right as you come from Jl Legian.
    * Happy Art Shop Ocean Beads is owned by Benny B and can be found at Jl Legian-Kuta-Bali No.426-Z. Ph/Fax (0361) 761 508, Mob 0381 3387 31204. They have large size resin beads and others.
    * Bintang Silver Collection in Jl Padma Utara, Legian. Near Puri Raja Hotel. Fixed price and cheap.
    * Jl Pura Bagus Taruna (once known as Rum Jungle Road) has a shop named Dani Collection. Beads, shells, silver, accessories. Good English.
    * There are outlets along Jl Padma Utara in Legian/Seminyak and two near the Bintang supermarket on Jl Legian. One of these stocks silver findings.
    * Bali Silver Beads and Jewellery Shop, Jl Gunung Sari A8, Padang Sambian Kaja, Denpasar. Ph +62 361 744 2262. E-mail sales@bali-silver-beads.com.
    * Sanzik Shop is at Jl Sahadewa No17C, Legian. sanzik_shop@yahoo.com. More beads than you can shake a stick at!
    * Satria is across the road from the Supernova Department Store in the building with the green 'Shalom' sign on top. Closed Sundays. 250 grams for Rp7,500. Jl Raya Kuta No200X, Kuta. satria@satria-bali.com. http://www.satria-bali.com/.  They also have a store at Jl Gajah Mada No134 in Denpasar. Seed beads and sequins, bugle and acrylic beads, stone chips also.
    * Jl Double Six in Legian/Seminyak seems to be becoming the place to hunt for beads, accessories and craft supplies in many of the shops.
    * Ramayana have Swarovski crystals and fresh water pearls in a stall on the ground floor near the front entrance.
    * In Ubud there are several in Monkey Forest Road. Try the one right on the corner near the Monkey Forest for a few different varieties.
    * The new (and expensive) fashion seems to be Pandora Beads. Try Perlu Jewellery, Jl Laksmana, Seminyak. Rp70-100,000 each.
        Also at Perlu in Jl Laksmana; muranto glass and ceramic.
        Also opposite Garden View Cottages on Padma Utara, Legian. Copies that have reportedly worn very little after much wearing.
        Alsi Charlie Brown's stall on the path facing the beach at Sindhu Beach markets. You need to be a tough bargainer here!

62. Swarovski Crystals also at Almas Enterprises, Ruko Padma No6, Padma Utara in Legian, Ph (0361) 750 336. They are official agents. They also have pearls and will make up anything that you want.
    * Irian Jaya Tarigan, Jaya Central Pancing, Jl By Pass I Gusti Ngurah Rai No354C, Kuta, near the Tuban end of the road. Ph(0361) 766 598.
    * On the second floor of the Denpasar markets, on the handicraft side of the river towards the back of the building there is a range of beads available at 'local' prices.
    * For silver beads try Solomon Silver II, Jl Werkudara No522 J, Legian.
    * UC Beads is on the opposite side of the Bintang Supermarket in Seminyak. It has been said that you can get wholesale prices for total purchases over Rp2 million, that's about Aus$300.
    * Use 'bead wholesalers Bali' as key words for a Google search.
    * Bali Beads in Celuk, just north of Denpasar, also has other jewellery at wholesale rates as well as silver findings.
    * long strings of glass beads are up to Rp15,000, decreasing for quantities.
    * Yasa Beads and Silversmiths, Br Cemenggaon, Celuk, Sukawati, Gianyar is run by Kadek Sudarsa who communicates fairly well in English. The phone number is (62 361) 294 649. They specialise in silver beads and various findings such as catches. Their stock range is large and well made and they will also make to order. Prices are by the gram and thus depend on the current price of silver. Ask almost anywhere in Celuk and most shops will be able to direct you as he is probably their supplier. He also does mail orders.
    * Purpa Silver on Monkey Forest Road in Ubud. Also reliable money changer.
    * Ubud Beads has wonderful gemstone beads. Two shops in Monkey Forest Road and one also in Celuk. (They are closed on Sundays I am told.) Zillions of beads makes the hardest part choosing!
    * Ruby Star is at the end of Hasanuddin street (the gold sellers street) in Denpasar. Crystals, pearls, Sterling silver findings, gemstones by the bucket load!
    BUTTONS – Try H. Shata Shop at 404 Jl Raya Legion near Jl Padma. Ph 758 538. Also at 429 Jl Legian Tengah.
    SEQUINS – Try Jl Sulawesi, Denpasar. The shops are off Jl Hasanuddin near the markets. Quite often you can buy them in bulk by weight.

63. CRAFT SUPPLIES: Toko have 3 outlets in Bali;
    Toko Central, 105 Jl Raya Kuta. Stone chips Rp7,000/strand, Cloisonné Rp87,500 for 100 gm, findings Rp20,000/gross, wires Rp20,000 for 4mm D. Also stocks findings and other craft items, glues, buttons etc.
    Toko Abadi, 65 Jl Raya Tuban
    Toko Kita 445 Jl Imam Bonjol, Denpasar.
    Shalom, opposite the Supernova in Tuban has craft supplies.

64. For mirrors of all sizes, able to be shipped back home in safety, try Aman Shop, Jl Raya Seminyak No 38.

65. Cloth and fabrics including single and double ikat and songket are available throughout Bali but usually the best must be discovered in out-of-the-way places. A good place to start is in the gold street of Denpasar near the markets, Jalan Hasanuddin. Any taxi driver will know where to take you. Other places will be found by using the 'Search' feature of your computer. Just click on the 'Edit' tab at the top of your screen, then the word 'Find' on the little menu that will drop down. Type 'Ikat' or 'cloth' or 'songket' in the space and continue to click 'Find Next' to go to every place where that word is to be found in this entire document.
    The sacred 'bebali ' cloth, used in traditional temple rituals is again being made ('06) in Sideman, at Pejenk near Ubud (where the 'Moon of Pejeng' bronze drum is kept) and at Seraya in east Bali.
    * In Ubud try Wardini's for a great range of ikat, batik, endek, songket and other fabrics.
    * Sulawasi street in Denpasar is also near the markets. Lots of materials for quilting, cushion covers and gold embroidered material. A 'guide' will probable attach themselves to you and demand money at the end of your shopping but its not a bad idea to bargain with them over their fee the first time you go as they know what all the shops stock. Materials are very cheap if you can bargain hard. Remember that these shop keepers are not the poorest of Balinese!
    * Alta Moda is on Jl Patih Jelantik. Three levels and a glass cage lift. If you want a dress designer/maker they will call Linda from Belinda House of Fashion, Ph 0361 743 7626, who does excellent work.
    * Another quality dressmaker at a budget price is Janoko Tailors in Poppies Lane II not too far from Legian Street. Ph 0361 753 230.

66. Temple umbrellas are made in a small village just north of Klungkung on the road to Karangasem, not far past the bridge. There are many varieties but you’ll need all of your bargaining skills.
    They are also available in the Denpasar markets on the top floor but the variety is not so great. Three layered large size are app Rp70,000.
    Flags are available here also, Rp18,000 approx – three sizes, 2, 3 and 5 M. in plain colours and various patterns.

67. For different gift ideas try Bali Boxes, Jl Dyana Pura 4, Kuta. Ph(62-0361) 731 415 or 731 637.

68. Some common items such as toothbrushes and toothpaste (strongly flavoured) are remarkably cheap – even for Bali.

69. Computer software (all pirated of course) is great buying but nowhere near as easy to source as they were only a year or so ago. Many of the shops have disappeared on no longer stock programs as the current craze for movie DVD's is far more lucrative and popular.
    The new kid on the block seems to be Istana CD in the newish Kuta Galeria complex, on the side opposite the bus-bemo park and Ace hardware. They have a great range (for PC and Macs !!!!) that are actually organised into categories on the shelves. The young guy who runs the place even has a good idea of what he's got in stock and will happily help you find your needs. A great difference to other stores. E-mail istana_cd_palace@yahoo.com. Ph (0361) 769 420 or 769 146. Fax (0361) 769 420. PC discs are Rp20,000 each and Mac stuff or DVD programs are Rp60,000.
    If the occasional program really refuses to run you will not have lost much in cash terms. Even full blown programs such as MS Office Pro are only Rp35,000/disc – that’s about A$7.00 !!! If you have trouble at the ‘enter the number’ stage and the appropriate number is not written on the box, label or disc, then open the disc in your computer (put the disc in the drive then - ‘Start’ – ‘Programs’ – ‘Windows Explorer’ – ‘CD-Rom drive’ or just ‘Start’ - ‘Run’) and then open each file you see – look at the contents of the ‘Read Me’ file too, or look for a file that might be called ‘comment’, ‘serial’, ‘crack’ (if the start code has been ‘cracked’) ‘key-gen’ ‘S.N.’ or a file ending in ‘.txt’ - the copiers often put the number in the disc contents rather than on a piece of paper which can get lost. Look also for a file called ‘Crack’ or ‘Crack.exe’ which will contain the code. Copy and paste this code into the folder on your c: drive that contains the game. You might get a prompt pop up asking if you want to replace the existing file – click Yes of OK. Failing that log on to Google (search) and try "warez" and "serial numbers" for an extensive list to help you. http://www.astalavista.box.sk/ and http://www.subserials.com/ are other sites with opening codes.
    Don’t phone Bill Gates at home and ask for after sales service!

70. Helgie is a favourite PS2, CD, DVD etc, supplier for Forumites, delivering to your hotel or posting to your home. Contact Helgie at mcshop@hotmail.com or Dede, (Deedee)  ddbaligong@hotmail.com or visit his web site, www.geocities.com/mcshop2002/helgie.htm. Ph (0011) (62) (361) 759 843. Shop in Garlic Lane off Melasti Street just opposite Dolphin Leather (recommended) and the Dolphin Cafe. He will mail discs to you at your home. You pay into his local bank account in Oz before the order is accepted. Yes, this has been proven to be reliable for many users. Takes about 10 days. He also guarantees the discs, which no one else seems to do. In '05 we found that he had no computer software at all and very little of anything else except movie DVD's.

71. Engineering and other computer software is still available from Softcomp Centre, Jl Legian Kelod No 408C and Poppies II – as well as new outlets in Jl Wana Segara, Tuban and Kuta Square Blok F number 11 opposite the art Markets as well as Jl Padma No 77 next to Warung Jogya in Legian.  softcomp_2000@yahoo.com for list. MP3’s for Rp35,000 with 200 tracks.
    Other computer software outlets; See the Denpasar District section.

72. DVD’s are the current fashion and are readily available at ridiculous prices – but be careful. Some VCD’s are very poor copies made from movie cameras in picture theatres. Check the quality on a player before you buy. No player – no buy. App Rp45,000 each. Bargain for volume purchases. At Ramayana Department store you can’t bargain but they commonly offer 1 free for purchase of 10 or 3 free for 20.

73. Playstation games from Rp3,000 / CD (top floor Ramayana shopping centre) to Rp5,000.

74. Prices for some everyday items (June 2001) – Crochet tablecloth (Git Git) Rp45,000 – Adidas V neck men’s’ tops (Kuta Markets) Rp25,000 – 5 watches (Kuta Beach Markets) Rp 25,000 each. – Toddlers and baby outfits at department stores. Rp30-40,000. Men’s’ business trousers (Matahari’s) Rp127,000. – Business shirts Rp50,000. – Italian ties (Discon) Rp100,000. – Long sleeve surf shirts (Kuta markets) Rp25,000 / short sleeve Rp20,000. – New music CD’s (everywhere) Rp70,000. – Small leather shoulder bags. Rp25,000. – Play Station games. Rp5,000. – Aussie coin bangles, matching mum-‘n-daughter. Rp 80,000 the pair. – Leather belts – Nike, Billabong etc, 10 for Rp300,000. – Hair braiding Rp30,000 – Bali girls hats Rp10,000 – Kids T-shirts Rp 20,000 – Men’s Nike knitted singlets Rp25,000 – Billabong kids shorts Rp15,000 – two long suede jackets A$290 – stubby holders Rp5,000 – watches Rp25,000 average – kids shirts Rp20,000 – men’s shirts Rp25,000 – 4 stone lanterns Rp200,000 – wrap-round, short skirt Rp20,000 – ¾ pants Rp25,000 – girls shorts Rp20,000 – girls skirts Rp20,000 – XXL Bali bag Rp70,000 – massage Rp25-50,000 depending on time/quality (you’ll get what you pay for) – sarongs Rp10-25,000 depending on fabric and size) – strapped dresses Rp25,000 -
    Lombok carved wooden place mats. Rp15,000.

75. FISHING GEAR: Telescopic rods, 2m, Rp65,000. 3m, Rp95,000. Rod & tackle bags Rp20-25,000. 4 bearing reels Rp60-70,000. Fabric coated squid jigs Rp15,000.

76. Boat rides can be arranged at almost any beach where you can see the traditional Prahus (pron. 'prah-huu'.) or Jukungs (pron. 'juu-koong'.) pulled up on the sand. Most are now powered by an outboard motor but if you find a sailing boat on some non-tourist beach then I recommend that you take it and experience the real thing. Show some interest in the boat and someone will soon come down and ask if you want to go out. Surfers commonly pay Rp20,000 for a ride to the reefs which is maybe 20 minutes to half an hour there and back for the fisherman. The cost is more if you want him to wait for you to finish or wipe out. A ride along the shore is an interesting (and safe) experience and you will pay probably about Rp50-75,000 for an hour if you start the bargaining at about Rp20,000. Big game fishing on large, up-market boats can cost up to US$120 per person.

77. Larger size clothing. Try Miss Debbie’s in Jl Sahadewa, beach side about 50 M north of Jl Melasti.

78. Big sizes off the rack in Ubud at Mutiara, Jl Raya and Real Bodies, Jl Hanuman opp Bodyworks.

79. Batiks and Ikat cloth readily available at most markets, including Sukawati. The best batiks are dyed right through the cloth. If the colour/pattern is stronger on one side it is probably printed or stamped which is not the best.

80. Prescription spectacles are good buying in Bali. Some Australian Health insurers will refund on costs of Bali glasses if you have Extras cover for spectacles. Have your receipt. There are outlets in most tourist areas such as Nusa, Sanur, Denpasar and Kuta. Try Bali Top Opticor Optic Seis or Optic Melawai or Harisha Optical (115 Jl Raya Kuta), for contacts, single focus, bi-focals and multi focals. Also prescription sun glasses. Transitional prescription glasses $120 in Denpasar, depending on frame quality. With cheap frames bi-focals can be as cheap as A$60. Eye testing is free or they can be made to your own prescription. Complex prescriptions can take 7-9 days (go early in your holiday) although simple reading glasses are same day or even ‘call back when you’ve finished shopping’! Check the fit of the lens in the frames.
    Optic, ground floor Ramayana Department store; In Kuta about 5 doors down from Matahari Department store (A$260 for multi-focal cf. $700 in Oz.).
    Harisna Optical, Jl Raya Kuta N0 105. From Bemo corner walk towards Denpasar (north), over the bridge and it’s on the right hand side where the road bears left. Multi-focals, rimless titanium frames, A$163. Locals seem to prefer this outlet.
    **  Many locals go straight to the source and visit Optik Jaya Mandiri in Jl Legian Gang Melani No3. The Gang runs off Legian towards the east between Melasti and Jl Patih Jelantik. The phone number is (0361) 786 360. This outlet also makes lenses for other suppliers so it must be good.
    Contact lens – Bali Galleria at the optometrists. Rp135,000 for a 6-pack. Made in Indonesia by Ciba Vision.
    In Sanur there are two outlets, one in Hardy’s Mall (the big supermarket-shopping centre) and another in the main street a short distance north of the Santrian Hotel.
    Transition lenses in good frames were Rp450,000 in early '05, including eye testing. Graduated transition lenses (not including frames) quoted at Aus$225 by Optic Seis in Kuta Square February '05.
    Lalu Mustakim is reported to give excellent service in your own hotel room rather than having to sit in a hot shop.Ph0815 5809 7823. Honest, reliable and quality work at very competitive prices.
    Nasional Optikal Kompani in Hasanuddin Street, Denpasar, give a 12 month guarantee with their work and they have an agent in Australia for convenient service.
    Lalu will come to your hotel, give you a full eye check and show you the different frames that he has. Rp400,000 (about Aus$60) for reading glasses ('06) ready in 3 days. Ph 0815 5809 7823.
    Optic Jaya Mandiri is about 10 paces along the small lane that goes east off Jl Legian about 50-60 paces south (towards Kuta) from the Melasti St traffic lights. Run by young Nur who has the latest training and equipment. Some other travelling salesmen get their real work done here.    *** '09 - I tried Nur in January and was very disturbed by the encounter. I have one eye which sees lower than the other and requires a wedge shape in that lens to correct things. I told Nur this before I sat down but he still persisted until 20 minutes later when he gave up trying to tell me the double vision I had was imagination! I think if I had not been as determined as he (or more so) he would have happily sold me useless glasses.
    Not always easy to find saline solution. Optic in Denpasar is an outlet.

81. Hearing Aids are available for Aus$453 for the latest types down to less than A$200 for older technology.
    Lily Kasoem Optikal on Jl Teuku Umar, Denpasar, Ph 283 405 test your hearing in about 15 minutes (results have been found to be identical to tests done in Australia) internal (Rp3,500,000 - Aus$460), external and the old pocket models with a thin cable up to the ear (like a spectacle retaining cord) at about Rp1,400,000, about Aus$180. Deposit of Rp1,000,000 required and production takes about a week.
    Also Audiotone Pt, Canal Audio, Ph62 21 739 4060, e-mailaudiotone@cbn.net.id.
    Also  in Kuta  Optika Melawi near the Dokar ranks on Jl Kartika by the Stadium Cafe.

82. Orchid plants are available in Bali and may be brought back into Australia if they are small tissue cultured examples growing in sterile medium in glass flasks. There may be up to 25 plants in a bottle and there are reports of strike rates as high as 75% when planted out. A maximum of 6 flasks per person are allowed and it is best to get a permit from Customs before you leave Oz. Go to AQIS on your computer and look for ‘tissue cultures’.
    The Bali Orchid Garden has over 100 varieties on show and over 100 varieties in flasks. Ph 466 010 or Mob 081 2383 5155.
    Flora Bali in the village of Kesiman near Sanur can also supply. Ask for Ibu Sylvia Muti or Pak Arnold.


The cheapest source is at Royal Orchids in Ubung, Denpasar. Rp20-25,000 and the greatest variety anywhere.

83. If you are interested in a night market try the Kereng Bemo station in Denpasar. At about 4.00 pm it slowly closes as a station and changes into a market for food, clothes jewellery, and a lot of other stuff. As it is mainly for locals the prices are amazing but tourists are welcomed.

84. For board bags (and other carry bags made to order) try 'BBB', Bali Board Bags, in Gang (lane) Benasari which is off Melasti Street next to Legian Cafe. 9' board bag Rp375,000 (about Aus$50). Also protective carry bags for musical instruments, skis etc. Wayan Surwita, Ph 081 2466 0773.

85.  

6.    EATING – with safety and enjoyably.

There must be thousands of restaurants, cafes and warungs (the local’s equivalent of fast food outlets) in Bali, offering a worldwide selection of cuisines. Many travellers report that they have eaten every meal at a different place and never had a bad one. Indeed, amongst such competition it can easily be believed that any that are bad would soon close up, but some dubious ones remain.

Balinese traditionally do not have the more-or-less fixed eating times common to westernised cultures but rather eat whenever they are hungry. Consequently eating is not a social occasion as we accept it. If you are out for travelling the day, your driver will understand that you will want to eat three meals a day. Don’t be either surprised or offended however if he declines your invitation to eat with you. He might prefer to rest and snooze in the car, talk ‘local shop’ with other drivers, eat non-westernised local food from a warung or a passing food cart or (as at the Pacung Indah Guesthouse and Restaurant near Bedugul) eat in the separated drivers area provided especially for their own needs.
If you are hosting Balinese for a meal they will eat lots of white rice and sambals to spice anything up to their taste will be welcomed. Without asking have tea and/or coffee available with lots of sugar and pour it for them as part of their meal. You will find that if you ask they will not want anything in case you think they are imposing on your generosity. Remember to specifically ask them to begin or they will wait an eternity in case they start too early and appear greedy. If it's your responsibility to prepare the menu it might be better to decide on Chinese, Indian or Thai rather than muck up their own local food.

Further down you will find many restaurants, cafes & warungs named in the various District sections. Travellers reporting on the Bali Travel Forum (BTF) site have recommended all of these. Here is a link to Eating at the first of the District pages, Tuban and Kuta. If you continue to scroll down from there you will find the others although it will be quicker to go up to the index and select the district you will be staying in.
BTF also maintain a current list of their staff favourites on http://www.baliguide.com/restaurants.html that is well worth referring to.
Another good list of eateries can be found at http://www-baliku.tripod.com/restaurantlinks.html .
http://www.balieats.com/ is up-to-date & accurate.

1. ‘Bali Belly’ is not rife but it will ruin your holiday and your friends’ holiday if you get it. If you get it bad the Bali medical system is not something you’ll enjoy, or even feel relaxed within!
   Wash or wipe your hands first. See ‘Contacts & Info’ above.

2. If you are in the market for a great romantic restaurant these have been recommended by a confirmed romantic;
   * de MemMidi in Uluwatu. Great views.
   * Indus in Ubud.
   * Ketumbar in Legian.
   * Koris in Kuta.
   * The Living Room in Seminyak.
   * KuDeTa also in Seminyak.
   * La Luciolla in Seminyak.
   * Ma Joly on the seafront in Tuban is classy (although the Pantai next door has a better outlook and is much cheaper).

3. Imported wine is not cheap to buy in Bali. The local Hattan wines are worth trying for interest. Their fruity white won an award in Europe in ’03. Their cellar-door shop is on the big round about by the exit to Sanur, near the Planet Hollywood. Average Rp45,000/bottle. Some French grape juice is now being used.
   You can bring your own (as much as you dare over the allowed 1.5 litres) but be prepared to pay $$$ if you get caught at Customs, and you will because there are state-of-the-art X-ray scanners at the airport since the Bali bombing. Work out what you are prepared to pay in advance and keep just that amount with your traveller’s cheques. Then you can show that that is all you have! You can pay no more! Keep the rest of your cash elsewhere. At worst your wine will be confiscated – at best your "fine" will be accepted, but don't ask for a receipt.
   Best wine shop at 60 Jl Raya Kerobokan has a reasonable selection at reasonable (for Bali) prices. It’s near Kafe Warisan. Per bottle US$15+.
   The new Ku de Ta Restaurant in Seminyak has probably the best wine list. It’s right on the beach next to the Oberoi and is not cheap, as the neighbourhood might suggest. Early in '05 there were some negative reports from returning diners who thought that the service and food quantity was not satisfactory compared with their previous visits.
   If you have a contact in Customs it might be possible to purchase confiscated wine at good prices – but don’t tell them who told you!
   A new local wine outlet has opened recently (2001), using grape juice imported from West Aust. See note 6 in ‘Shopping’, above. This is Wine of the Gods. They have an outlet where you can taste on the Ngurah Rai By Pass road from the airport. It is near the pink Bali Adventure Tours building. If you get to the Makro Supermarket you’ve come too far. Go back and look on the other side of the road. Ph 726 883. A$12-18 a bottle. They will deliver free to nearby hotels.
   There is a retail outlet for all sorts of wines towards Legian from Matahari’s.
   Another recommended during the wine and spirit shortages of late '08 and '09 is Bali Jaya on Jl Raya Kuta No132 - between Jl Singosari and Jl Pantai.
   Indico Wines are another local producer with vineyards along the north coast not far from Lovina. These vines are said to be descended from original cutting brought by the early traders in the Spice Islands. See www.wguides.com/city/191/240_293505.efm. Visits to the Lovina Winery can be arranged. Ph +62 361 228 222. There is an office in Denpasar at Jl Raya Puputan, No88, RENON.

4. Are you paying ‘commission’? The standard price of Nasi Goreng ‘Special’ is Rp15,000.
   How much tax are you paying? Restaurant/café rates vary from 5% to 25%. Makes a difference at the end of the meal. Check the tax and service charge rates on the menus.

5. Fruit is fantastic! Any fruit that you can peel is safe. Do not eat fruit if the edible portion has been washed in local water.

6. Try Passionfruit, Salak, and Mangosteen, known as Manggis (pron Mun – geese) if fresh. They cut easily around the ‘equator’ but are very tough from ‘pole to pole’. If you can pull off the stem and leaves there is a small hollow left. Squeeze around this and a split will open in the skin. Try Sawo and bananas also. The following list of fruit was posted by Smudge UK in '05;

7. Bali has so much fruit available some a lot of us never heard of before coming here, I think it might be interesting to see how many of you have tried all the following and if you know of some I have left out. I have tried to give Indonesian names in the hope others may find this interesting
   Fruit Buah; Banana Pisang; Yellow Mellon Semangka kuning; Red Melon Semangka Merah; sweet Mellon Melon; Apple Apel; Pear Pir; Jambu Jambu Air; Jambo Biji Jambo Biji; Tamerind Tamerind; Kiwi Kiwi; Sawbo Sawbo (bit like Kiwi red colour); Pasion Fruit Kepundung; Papiah Pepaya;  Pineapple Nanas; Mangis Mangis; Hairy Fruit Rambutan; Snake Fruit Salak; Lychese Lycese; Grapes Angur; Mango Manga; Strawberry ; Dragon Fruit Dragon Fruit; Orange Sweet Jeruk Manis; Orange sour Jeruk Masam; Lemon Jeruk Nipis; Grapefruit ; Pomello ; Pomegranit Jelima; Jack Fruit Jakfruit; Durian durian.

8. ‘Makan Pagi’ – breakfast. ‘Makan Siang’ – lunch. ‘Makan Malam’ – dinner.

9. ‘Nasi’ – rice. ‘Mie’ – noodles. ‘Ikan’ – fish. ‘Ayam’ – chicken. ‘Sapi’ – beef. ‘Babi’ – pork. ‘Kepiting’ – crab. ‘Udang’ – shrimp/prawns. ‘Susu’ – milk. ‘Gulu’ – sugar. ‘Kopi’ – coffee. ‘The’ – tea. ‘Bir’ – beer. ‘garam’ – salt. ‘Merica’ – pepper.

10. Bakso Sapi – noodle soup with beef balls. Sate Ayam or Sate Kambing – chicken or goat sate. Soto Babat – offal soup. Martabak telur – savoury omelette. Sop Kaki Kambing – leg of lamb soup. Nasi Goreng Komplit – fried rice with the lot including. fried egg on top. Mie Kocok – fried noodles with vegetables. Lontong Opor – rice cake with chicken curry. Tahu Ketupat – beancurd with vegetables. Karedok – vegetables with peanut sauce. Cah Kangkung – spicy vegetables and spinach. Nasi Campur – (Bali special), mixed rice. Es Campur – mixed fruit drink. Es Kalapa Muda – young coconut milk with coconut flesh. Cendol – coconut milk, palm sugar and rice flour, drink or dessert.

11. Most steaks are tough in Bali. Some believe that they are all ‘road-killed-or-died-of-old-age-or-natural-causes’ water buffalo. They’re certainly not grain-fed and lot-fattened beasts.

12. There are a wide variety of breads and other baked products available in Bali. In Seminyak try the French Country Loaf from Temuku next to the Krakatoa. Le Bake Shop in Kuta has breakfast rolls, baguettes etc, as do the Gourmet Garage in Jimbaran By and Kafe Moka in Legian. The Bali Deli at 119X Jl Kunti in Seminyak is worth checking for cake shop items and Dijon’s opposite the Bali International Medical Clinic (BIMC) on the roundabout on Jl By Pass Kuta/Tuban.

13. Desserts are great in the land of coconut milk and palm sugars. Try Black Rice Pudding (for breakfast too). ‘Rujak’ is a tropical fruit salad with dressing containing tamarind, palm sugar and sweet & sour chilli sauce. Don’t think about it – try it! ‘Home Made Ice creams’ such as ginger flavoured.

14. Some brave people try the street carts called ‘kaki lima’ (‘5 feet’) Claim great taste is reward!?

15. "Recommending places to eat in Bali is like picking the winner of the Grand National. The horse can have great form and the world’s best trainer but the real question is, who is the jockey? In Bali restaurants and warungs the question is, who is cooking today?" – ‘Cracker & Rae’.

16. Vegetarian meals are fairly easy to find in Bali. For more and current information go to the Happy Cow web site. One of the more notable vegetarian restaurants is Aromas on Jl Legian in Kuta (the toilets here are great too). Others that have been recommended for vegetarians with non-vegy partners are
    The Crown Restaurant in Jl Legian, not far from the Legian Paradiso;
    Moody’s in Jl Dynapura, Seminyak;
    The Mariner in Jl Legian; Poppies in Poppies Lane, Kuta;
    Ledgends Restaurant;
    Indo National in Jl Padma in Legian.
    Savitri Café near the golf course in Sanur.
    The Hare Krishna Warung on the airport-Sarur By Pass road. No need to worry here that the cooking utensils have just stirred a dish of local water buffalo, known locally as 'beef'.

17. For ‘at home’ delicacies try Dijon in Kuta near the roundabout on the By Pass road not far from the airport.
    Bali Deli in Jl Kunti, Seminyak.
    Gourmet Garage in Jimbaran.
    Matahari’s Department store in Kuta also has a range of cheeses, including Brie, salami, olives etc.
    For Aussies Vegemite is easily obtained but check the label carefully. Most supplies are made in New Zealand and are slightly sweet, more like Marmite. Try Dijon Deli near the roundabout on Jl By Pass near the airport.

18. Take-away food is available in Bali. Try the specialist delis such as Dijon, Bali Deli or Mamma's German Restaurant which has won several respected cleanliness and processing awards. They deliver from 10am to 11pm. Have a look at www.bali-mammas.com.

19. Donations to Gloria’s Crisis Care Centre can be made at the Legian Garden Restaurant in Melasti Street. Any good taxi driver can take you there. Atmosphere and food’s good too.
    Other drop-off places for donations are Tommy’s Café on Jl Puri Bagus Teruna (also known as Rum Jungle Road) and CAS Cargo on the By Pass Road in Denpasar.
     Gloria’s CCC is in Dusun Lebah, Kaliasem, Lovina. Visitors are welcome to come and see the work. Volunteer workers are doubly welcome. See the web site which has been set up for her at http://www.balicrisicare.org/ . Ph (0362) 42 286 or 0812 377 4649 E-mail balicrisiscare@hotmail.com.
    There is a wish-list of the most urgent needs and it is regularly updated. http://www.wonderfulbali.com/albums/19/wishlist.htm .

7.    DRINKING – for enjoyment and safely.

1. Drink only bottled water that you have taken the top off yourself or which you have seen the top taken off and the seal broken, or water vigorously boiled for at least 5 to 10 minutes – and what’s left of it then?

2. If you partake of Beer (and you will, regularly and in larger than normal quantities as a cooling libation I can assure you) then also remember to drink lots of water to overcome dehydration, which is a real and serious risk in Bali’s heat.

3. Do not use straws as they are sometimes washed and re-used.

4. Wipe the tops of bottles after they have been opened and before they come into contact with your mouth.

5. Don’t risk cold bottled/canned drinks from coolers filled with ice slurry. The water in the slurry must be suspect. Use drinks from refrigerated cabinets.

6. In the southern tourist areas at least, ice seems OK.

7. Beers – Bintang (it means ‘star’ in the local language), Carlsberg, San Migel, Anker. Don't just drink beer if you're thirsty. Your body will be needing water as well to prevent dehydration in the tropical climate. Drink water, soda water of sports drinks such as Gatorade as well. Three beers to a water is recommended by an old friend who is also a surviving soak.

8. Lassi. Yoghurt drink with fruit or honey.

9. Taking wine into Bali beyond the 1 litre per person limit is a game indulged in and enjoyed by many. If you find that a white cross marks your bags when you pick them up you have been caught and you will need a good story or a few dollars to pay the Customs Officer’s "fine". Decide how much you’re prepared to pay in advance and keep only this amount in your wallet with travellers’ cheques. If you’re asked for more than this sum show your wallet and explain that this is all that you have. It will generally be accepted. Do not whinge and whine! Smile and take it on the chin. Remember it’s a game and you decided to play.
   I have heard it said that the best range of wines at the very best prices in all of Bali is at the back door of the Customs House, but I can’t personally confirm this because I’ve never been able to find the right door.
   There is a local wine named Hattens that can be tried for the sake of interest and for background conversation at your next Beefsteak and Burgundy club meeting! World wines (mainly Australian and French) are commonly available at the supermarkets but the prices are alarming as the Governments excise duty paid for alcohol imported into Bali is astronomical. This is to appease the majority Muslims in the Indonesian upper & ruling classes. Best Wines in Jl Kerobokan supply imported wines at more reasonable rates than most outlets. In Ubud sales are available from the new Lamak Restaurant at around Rp100,000 / bottle (A$20-US$10 app) and this is discounted at 30% to take away.
   An enterprising West Australian company is now exporting grape juice into Bali (at nil excise rates as it is not alcohol at this stage) and completing the fermentation processes there. Known as ‘Wine of the Gods’ ( winegods@indosat.net.id )it is available from the winery/shop on Sanur bypass road, on the right just past Adventure Tours House but before the Benoa Harbour turn-off as you travel from Kuta. You can taste before you buy. Prices are about Rp80-95,000/bottle. If you know what you want they will deliver an order to your hotel. A good site for the latest info on wines in Bali is http://baliguide.com/restaurants_intro.html#beer .

8.    VISITING Some recommended ‘hot spots’. For a day tour with variety.

1. Pupuan, rice terraces, on 30 Km of road between Tabanan & Seririt on the north coast not far from Lovina. 

2. Jatiluwih, recommended for inclusion in the World Heritage lists, is also in the Tabanan Regency. It is spectacular and a major producer of black and red rice.

3. Candikuning, fruit & veg market near Bedugul in the central highlands. For contrast also stop at the Baturiti markets just before Candikuning. These are more local than tourist markets with even a working goldsmith in the back row of shops.

4. The expanse of rice terraces just past Amlapura in the east of Bali, running down the mountain slopes to the coastal plains are simply mind-boggling.

5. Bali Art Tour,

6. Pondok Wana Plaga.

7. Visit Munduk water falls up in the central mountains above Bedugul. More peaceful than many that are more popular and not a hard walk in comparison with others. Stop at a small coffee plantation and restaurant at Ngireng Ngewedang on a sharp right turn just before Munduk.

8. Gianyar, Bali’s bamboo district.

9. Rice terraces at Tirthagangga (often claimed to be the best in Bali – particularly in the months leading up to July) or Tegalang.

10. Visit the three Dutch colonial iron 'railway' bridges in Bali. In Sukawati, west of the Art Market, between Bona and Belega villages, towards Gianyar, the largest towards Klungkung. All on the main road (actually a bit north of the present road, from Batubukan, (north east of Denpasar) through Bona, (near Gianyar), to Klungkung in the mid-east towards Candi Dasa. There have never been trains running on real lines in Bali but there is a steam train to be seen near Paradiso Bowling in Kuta. Ask a local and they'll tell you where. Must have been an expensive promotion at some time.

11. Dreamland Beach about 30 min from Kuta on the way to Uluwatu. You can rent homestay rooms at the beach (app Rp100,000/night - '06) but there are only two villas so bookings might be the way to go. There are warungs for food & drink, massage and so on. The water gets deep very quickly near the shore and the reef can be dangerous because it is very shallow and the waves dump further out. When going to Dreamland Beach take the right branch when you come to a fork in the road. This will lead you down to a flattish car park area with a little warung and only about 10 steps down to that beautiful beach.

12. Padang Padang beach is also on the Bukit peninsula near Uluwatu temple but a bit further south than Dreamland, towards Uluwatu and is also spectacular with bright greenish water. A bit safer than some of the nearby beaches but always be careful of rips and hidden holes anywhere around these surfing beaches. There are a few T-shirt sellers but not pushy. Have a look at http://www.filosbali.net/balibeaches.htm for more on Bali's beaches.

13. The butterfly park at Tabanan, north west of Denpasar. Rp15-30,000 There is also a store in Ubud, Jl Raya Lungsiakan that sells insect souvenirs. Declare them when you go home, just in case.

14. Beware of the so-called ‘Village of Thieves’, Pennestenan and Nyuhkuning. These neighbouring villages are a couple of kilometres west of Ubud (Pennestenan) and a couple south (Nyuhkuning). Camphuan just out of Ubud also has a bad reputation for tourist robbery. Robberies usually occur while you are asleep. If you wake up its best to pretend that you’re still asleep as knife attacks are common too.

15. Snorkelling and diving locations worthy of a visit are at Menjangan Island (north west coast), Lipah, Tulamben (north east coast), Lovina, Amed, Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningen, the Crystal Bay on Nusa Penida (beware the currents and eddies here on moving tides) and even the reef off Sanur.

9.    THINGS TO DO – some common, some exotic.

1. Reflexology, Jl Kartika Plaza, opp side to Dynasty. A$13 for 1 hr.

2. Read ‘Bali Sun’ newspaper, ‘Jakarta Post’ for interesting light on local news. (‘Bali Post’ is in Indonesian.)

3. Go to Java, but with care. Java is a predominantly Muslin country whilst Bali is mainly more peaceful Hindu. These two parts of Indonesia are quite different. From the southern tourist areas it is about 4 hours to Gilimanuk ion the north west coast where the ferry to Ketapang Harbour (in the Banyuwangi Regency of Java) departs. You can drive your own car or take a bus (Akas Bus Co). If in your own car you must keep awake to maintain your place in the queue to get on the ferry. This can take from a few minutes to 5 or 6 hours on a public holiday. The busses will have priority to get on the ferry. The ferries are old Japanese surplus with a scungy shop, a rabid lounge area with foreign language re-runs of imported soap operas and a sun deck, swept cleanish by the wind and waves, from which you can check your progress by the approach of the Mount Merapi volcano caldera in East Java. The crossing takes about 1 1/2 hours and costs from Rp15,000 in the bus to Rp 30,000 for a small car. Most of the passengers are not tourists but locals and business people who will be happy to chat and give you a different (honest?) view of Indonesia and Indonesians. In Java you might visit Kawah Ijen and see the sulphur workers toiling up the crater. http://www.volcanic images.com/kawa/kawaijen.html.  Tours can be arranged by Paul of BaliJava Tours in Poppies Lane I, opposite Bamboo Corner, paulyogya@hotmail.com, Mob +62 8 123 64 2000. Rp2,150,000 pp for all accommodation, meals etc. If you want to fly back instead of bus again its an extra Rp450,000 pp.

4. Unda Adventures White-water Rafting, run finishes at Klungkung. A$45 inc lunch. Tickets at BaliAussi Restaurant. No steps to climb at the end (some have over 300!) Can be got for US$35pp. Instead of US$65.

5. Bali Safari Rafting – Telaja Waga river – faster & longer. Good buffet meal too. Take camera. Good showers and Restaurant after. 300 steps! ‘Better than Sobek’. May now (2001) have been bought out by Sobek and called Telaga River Rafting.

6. Sobek Rafting. Operates on both the Ayung and Telaja Waga rivers. The Ayung is the less frightening river but it has many steps down to and up from the river. The Ayung is in central southern Bali (around Ubud and above) with great scenery and the Telaga Waja is to the east, about an hour’s more driving.

7. Bali International Rafting runs on the same river as Bali Rafting but fewer steps to and from river. About 80 down and 90 back up. <